Understanding the recent Cruise shows, 5 most common resume mistakes + NEW shopping edit
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What’s new in Cruise fashion shows?
Many fashion brands have staged their Cruise runways lately. In the last week, we discovered Resort collections of Louis Vuitton, Versace, Dior, and Chopard.
On May 24, Louis Vuitton staged its Resort 2024 runway show on a small private island called Isola Bella, one of the Borromean islands on Lake Maggiore in Italy, blending Baroque elements with modernity, and had“botanical references” inspired by the gardens of the 16th-century Borromean palazzo.
“I was very attracted by the story around the lake, its fairy-tale creatures,” said the creative director Nicolas Ghesquière to WWD, adding that he wanted the first models to convey “the feeling they are coming out of the water, they are the explorers of the lake, beautiful creatures, almost like the mythological lake mermaids with dragon wings.” “Everyone thinks of cruises on the sea, but on the lake, they are lovely and very romantic, it’s a different way to approach the cruise theme.”
Versace and Dua Lipa unveiled their co-designed see-now-buy-now collection “La Vacanza” in Cannes on May 23, which was inspired by Versace’s archives from the 90s.
Dua Lipa was heavily involved in the design process. “At run-throughs the day before the show, Lipa was checking the models’ looks, demonstrating how they should strut on the catwalk and taking an active role coordinating the show and styling,” according to WWD. “I don’t think I can draw at all, but they can take the little sketches and turn them into dreams come true,” Dua Lipa shared with the publication.
Chopard launched its very first couture collection in Cannes as well, on May 23.
The idea came to the creative director Caroline Scheufele during last year’s Venice Film Festival when she wore a custom gown designed to highlight her jewels. So she was inspired to create 20 silhouettes including gowns, party dresses, and suits for the red carpet - a couture collection where jewelry would be a central element.
“A lot of the collection was designed with the idea of matching specific types of jewels — from the jewel tone of an outfit to patterns that would complement specific designs and cuts of stones,” said Scheufele to WWD.
Chopard is planning to show couture collections annually once a year in Cannes, coinciding with the Red Carpet Haute Joaillerie collection the jewelry brand unveils there every year.
Dior traveled to Mexico City for its Cruise 2024 show, which took place on May 20. Creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri collaborated with artisans from Oaxaca, Chiapas, and Puebla to contribute to the collection, inspired by Frida Kahlo, and conveyed topics of birth, abortion, and miscarriage.
She shared with WWD that she has always had an admiration for Mexico and Frida Kahlo. “It was the first exhibition I saw in Italy of a woman artist,” said the designer. “It was really something that affected me…because she used clothes to define herself. She mixed Mexican and European, but at the same time she maintained her personality. She was a genius.”
The founder Christian Dior also had a connection to Mexico since his first collection in 1947 when one of the dresses was called “Mexico”, followed by other styles in the future named “Acapulco”, “Soirée à Mexico”, and “Mexique”. In 1950, Dior signed a contract with the Mexico City department store “El Palacio de Hierro” to reproduce his collection with local customers in mind. It was such a success he signed Mexican actress María Félix to be a brand ambassador.
We will be happy to hear your thoughts on these Cruise shows in the comments.
If you want to learn about the history of Cruise Collections and what they stand for, we invite you to read this newsletter we published a few weeks ago.
What's happening in the industry this week?💚
Louis Vuitton to open men’s fashion week
The new creative director Pharrell Williams will stage its debut show on June 20, the opening day of Paris Men’s Fashion Week, which will run until June 25. Stay tuned for the official calendar!
Saint Laurent is headed to Berlin for its menswear show
Saint Laurent’s men’s fashion show will be unveiled at the Neue Nationalgalerie in Berlin on June 12.
In recent years, the French brand staged traveling shows in Marrakech, Venice, New York City, and Malibu.
Valentino’s Haute Couture collection to take place in France
Valentino announced that its next couture show for the fall 2023 season will be staged at the Château de Chantilly, 30 miles north of Paris, on July 5.
Paris is where the Italian brand has traditionally presented its couture collections, however, the fall 2021 and 2022 shows took place in Venice and Rome, respectively.
Giorgio Armani to stage a fashion show in Venice
The Italian designer will hold a One Night Only event on September 2 in Venice for which he will present the Armani Privé couture show, followed by an evening party. It will coincide with the 80th edition of the International Film Festival.
Armani has a strong connection with Hollywood, having designed for multiple movies like “American Gigolo” and “Casino Royale”, as well as the Venice film festival, which began in 1990 with the “Made in Milan” documentary directed by Martin Scorsese, in which the designer discussed his creative process and the role of the Italian city in his work.
Chanel to repeat the Cruise 2024 show in Shenzhen
After its recent Resort show that took place in Los Angeles last week, Chanel is planning to show it again in Shenzhen, China on November 2 of this year.
This will be the first major event the French fashion house stages in mainland China since the “Mademoiselle Privé” exhibition in Shanghai in 2019. Prior to that, Chanel staged a replica of its 2016 Métiers d’Art show in Beijing in 2016, as well as a repeat show of the Cruise 2018 collection in Chengdu in 2017.
By the way, did you know that it’s Chanel that introduced Cruise shows to the world? The first one took place in 1919 in Deauville.
Gucci Vault to launch a summer capsule
For its new edition of Gucci Vault, introduced in the fall of 2021 as an experimental online space that offers vintage and archival pieces as well as limited-edition collaborations with other brands, the Italian brand has collaborated with 8 brands to create a summer collection of ready-to-wear, jewelry, shoes, and accessories for women and men, launching on Monday. These brands are Agua by Agua Bendita, Connor McKnight, Husbands, Judith Leiber Couture, Prounis Jewelry, Vans, and Rowing Blazers.
Lacoste and Sporty & Rich unveiled a collaboration
The two brands are releasing a 22-piece collection of apparel and accessories next Wednesday that were inspired by archival Lacoste styles from the 1970s and 1980s. It was co-created by Lacoste’s former creative director Louis Trotter and Sporty & Rich founder Emily Oberg.
Valentino Escape 2023 capsule collection to travel the world
Valentino unveiled a series of worldwide activations dedicated to its new capsule collection “Valentino Escape 2023“. It will land in resort destinations globally with exclusive events across the Amalfi Coast, Saint-Tropez, Mykonos, Dubai, and the Hamptons. The collection will reinterpret the archival prints of Valentino. This year, the brand focused on its Animalier, Panther, and Loop patterns.
Valentino opened a new flagship store in Paris
The new store at 35 Avenue Montaigne is 7,100 square feet versus 5,715 square feet at the previous store on the same avenue. The rooms were painted and furnished in Valentino’s signature red color and include a VIP room and spaces for accessories and menswear.
Ludovic de Saint Sernin leaves Ann Demeulemeester
6 months after he was appointed creative director, Ludovic de Saint Sernin, a Belgian-born designer who graduated from ESAA Duperré and worked for important French brands including Balmain, decided to leave the Belgian house Ann Demeulemeester. The reasons for this decision were not disclosed, and the successor has not been appointed yet.
Fashion Career Tip of the week
Are you applying for dozens of fashion jobs but don't hear any response?
While there could be many reasons why your job applications are not working, your resume is for sure one of them. You could match the job perfectly and even have 10/10 of the skills outlined, but if your resume is not designed and formatted correctly, you might not get the job.
Did you know that recruiters receive on average 500 resumes for the same fashion job/internship, and that they spend around 3 seconds to decide whether it's good or not?
In our recent article, we share the 5 most common resume mistakes and how you can build a brilliant resume so that it stands out and you get invited for a job interview ⭐
Read the article here.
Nice things 💖
The Vogue Summer Issue featuring Margot Robbie on the cover
What to read this week 📚
How much do you know about Bottega Veneta?
We love sharing with you the history of iconic fashion brands on Glam Observer. In our latest article, we talked about the history of Bottega Veneta, the prestigious Italian luxury house known for its leather goods, Intrecciato Weave, and the “When your own initials are enough” signature slogan.
You will learn:
How the founders Michele Taddei and Renzo Zengiaro came up with the idea of launching Bottega Veneta
The idea behind the famous “When your own initials are enough” slogan
What's Bottega's Intrecciato
All creative directors of Bottega Veneta and how the brand evolved under their leadership
And more!
Read the article here. Enjoy!
Fashion Profiles to follow this week
Emily Oberg, founder of Sporty&Rich
Valentino Archive to look into the brand’s Vintage Haute Couture collections
The Shopping Edit 👠
Welcome to a brand new section of Inside Fashion - the Shopping Edit! Every week, we will share with you some of our favorite fashion pieces.
This week, we loved:
Let us know what you think about this new section :)
Your Fashion Jobs Date 🔍
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That’s all for this week.
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Giada Graziano, Inside Fashion Editor in Chief and Glam Observer Founder
Margarita Skacenko, Fashion Editorial Assistant
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