What Resort collections mean for the fashion industry, 2025 color of the year + how to get a job at Chanel
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This Tuesday, Chanel staged its 2024 Resort show at the Paramount Studio in Los Angeles.
Do you know what’s the difference between a Resort runway and a Ready-to-wear show? Let’s see.
Cruise Collections, or “resort” or “holiday” collections as they are otherwise known, launch in May/June between the two main ready-to-wear seasons: Spring/Summer and Fall/Winter. Unlike the two main fashion weeks that happen in fashion capitals, there are fewer restrictions with a Resort collection. Brands are free to show on their own terms outside of the industry-regulated fashion week schedules and locations.
The cruise collection was originally designed for wealthy cruise guests vacationing around the Mediterranean Sea during wintertime who needed a wardrobe for their mid-season travels to climates different from their own. Stores were full of winter items at this time and a need for swimwear and a holiday wardrobe was missing from the racks. So fashion houses like Gucci, Chanel, Dior, and others, brought cruise collections to life.
Recently, with the competition from fast fashion brands that release a new drop every week, the cruise collection is an opportunity for luxury brands to inject an entirely new must-have mid-season collection into the market and charm their global consumers who consistently travel or live in sunny climates all year round.
When you think of Resort Shows think of relaxed silhouettes, lightweight fabrics, and statement swimsuits. Whatever you need to soak in the sun in style on holiday, these collections have.
Here is the calendar of the upcoming Resort shows:
Gucci – Seoul, South Korea, May 16
Dior - Mexico City, Mexico, May 20
Louis Vuitton – Isola Bella, Italy, May 24
Carolina Herrera - Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, June 1
Max Mara – Stockholm, Sweden, June 11
What was your favorite look from the Chanel Resort 2024?
What's happening in the industry this week?💚
Alessandro Michele - the next Walter Albini’s creative director?
Swiss investment firm Bidayat has recently confirmed that it will be bringing back the luxury Italian brand Walter Albini. Rumor has it, Alessandro Michele is involved in this come-back and could become Albini’s next creative director.
Peter Do is the new creative director of Helmut Lang
Peter Do will oversee the creative direction for the women’s and men’s collections at Helmut Lang as of next Monday, while managing his namesake brand. He will present his debut collection for Helmut Lang for spring 2024 during New York Fashion Week in September.
Born in Vietnam, Peter Do studied fashion design at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York and was the recipient of the inaugural 2014 LVMH Graduate Prize. He then worked at Celine under Phoebe Philo and later at Derek Lam. In 2018, he launched his own eponymous label.
Daniel Lee unveils his first swimwear campaign
Burberry released creative director’s Daniel Lee debut swimwear campaign shot and filmed by Tyrone Lebon, featuring Burberry’s Equestrian Knight Design. The iconic logo was born in 1901 and recently returned to feature in the designs of Daniel Lee’s collections who joined Burberry on October 3d, 2022, and showed his first collection during Fall/Winter 2023 in London.
Burberry created new shoe soles with the Equestrian Knight logo under the creative direction of Daniel Lee.
DVF goes into secondhand
Diane Von Furstenberg is joining the resale market with “ReWrap” (a nod to the iconic wrap dress), a resale program developed with tech start-up Archive on DVF’s e-commerce site. Customers will be able to shop pieces from the brand’s own archives, submit their requests for DVF hard-to-find pieces in the tab “Missed Connections”, and sell their pre-owned pieces. There will also be a “Diane in Search Of” list where the designer herself will put out requests for the pieces she wants to add to her own closet.
Thélios will license Bulgari eyewear
As of January 2024, Bulgari will hand over the design, manufacturing, and distribution of its eyewear collections to Thélios, the LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton-owned eyewear manufacturer, replacing Bulgari’s former licensee EssilorLuxottica.
New Fendi exhibit at Arnaldo Pomodoro Foundation
Fendi has partnered with the foundation of the renowned Italian sculptor Arnaldo Pomodoro, who reinterpreted Fendi’s signature Peekaboo bag. It will be displayed at the Fendi exhibition “Arnaldo Pomodoro. Il Grande Teatro delle Civiltà” that inaugurates today and will run until October 1 at the brand’s headquarters in Rome, Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana. Curated by Lorenzo Respi and Andrea Viliani in collaboration with Fondazione Arnaldo Pomodoro, the exhibit spans more than 70 years of Pomodoro’s career, showcasing around 30 artworks the sculptor created between the late 1950s and 2021.
Victoria’s Secret is doing a movie
After putting its fashion shows on pause in 2019 due to increasing criticism of the brand’s lack of model diversity and strict beauty standards, Victoria's Secret is rebooting its fashion show as a movie, “The Victoria’s Secret World Tour”. It will talk about the making of fashion collections and showcase the designs (lingerie and ready-to-wear included) from 20 artists from 4 cities - Bogota, Lagos, London, and Tokyo. The film will celebrate the “individuality of women’s stories and perspectives,” said Raúl Martinez, head creative director at Victoria’s Secret to BoF. It will be available for streaming internationally, followed by a live fashion show this fall.
“Project Runway” is coming back
“Project Runway” season 20, an American reality television showcasing designer competition, will premiere on June 15 at 8 p.m. on Bravo TV and Peacock, with 14 participants from the previous seasons. Christian Siriano will return as a mentor, with judges Nina Garcia, Brandon Maxwell, and Elaine Welteroth. They will be joined in appearances by Hollywood celebrities and famous fashion industry professionals, including Law Roach, Wes Gordon, and the chief executive officer of the CFDA, Steven Kolb, among many others. This is the first time the show has offered an all-star season.
Fashion Career Tip of the Week
Do you dream of working at Chanel but don’t know where to start?
Getting a job at a luxury fashion brand sounds thrilling, but at the same time, it can be intimidating, especially when you are at the beginning of your career.
Truth is, you don't need a fashion degree or experience to start your career at Chanel. In our recent article on glamobserver.com, we share strategies on how to get a job at Chanel. You will learn:
The different careers at the French Maison and how to choose the right one for you
Where to find jobs and internships at Chanel
Skills you will need the most
How to build your application to maximize your chances of landing a job or internship at the Parisian House
Read the article here.
Nice things 💖
“Future Dusk” has been named the Color of the Year for 2025 by WGSN and Coloro.
For the first time, British Vogue released a Braille copy of its May issue for blind and partially sighted people.
What to watch this week 📺
Have you watched Chanel Resort 2023/2024 runway yet? Discover or relive the show everyone is talking about now.
What to read this week 📚
Prada Group recently reported that its Q1 2023 revenues surpassed 1 billion euros, raising by 22% to exactly 1.06 billion euros compared to 876 million euros in Q1 2022. Prada and Miu Miu are responsible for this growth in a big part. Retail sales increased by 21% and 42%, respectively.
With this news, along with the fact that it has been named the hottest brand of the year in Q4 2022 by List, Prada maintains its status of one of the most famous luxury brands in the world.
Want to know how Prada came to be so successful?
We recently wrote a piece about the history of Prada on glamobserver.com. You will learn about: the Origins of Prada, the first ready-to-wear collection and other brand’s lines, iconic Prada pieces, and recent brand’s projects.
Read the article here.
Fashion Profiles to follow this week
Peter Do, the new creative director-to-be of Helmut Lang
Chanel Archives, to dive more into Chanel’s history and designs
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That’s all for this week.
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Giada Graziano, Inside Fashion Editor in Chief and Glam Observer Founder
Margarita Skacenko, Fashion Editorial Assistant
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