Fashion Shows Insights: how much they cost, what it takes to produce them, the ROI...
plus the updated list of fashion jobs and internships
This is Inside Fashion a newsletter brought to you by Glam Observer that each week covers behind-the-scenes of fashion, industry news, career advice, profiles to follow, jobs and more!
Every insights about fashion shows
Fashion month is a magic time for so many of us - editors, buyers, celebrities and fans. And sometimes we might be asking ourselves why brands organize them, what are the different roles involved, how much it costs and the impact fashion shows have on the industry.
Runway shows obviously create interest among the public to spread awareness about new arrivals in design and style, and forecast trends. Think about it: without them, it would be more difficult to know about new collections, predict what looks will be trendy next season and find them on the pages of the magazines. Therefore, we can say that fashion shows help to spread knowledge. Besides purely showcasing the latest designers’ creations, these shows are real spectacles. Fashion designers, brands and houses spend a fortune trying to stand out from the crowd so that they reach a new level of recognition and attract customers. This is why the Big Four - New York, London, Milan, and Paris - have to battle each season for influence more imaginatively than ever.
Imagine: on average, a 10 to 15 minute fashion show can cost anywhere from $200,000 to over $1 million! Big brands like Marc Jacobs, Burberry and Chanel, all known for staging over-the-top spectacles, are spending way more. For example, in 2011, Marc Jacobs’ fall show cost at least $1,000,000 (or $1,750 per second)! The Chanel Cruise Show in 2014 specially built on a Dubai island cost £1,4 million. And did you know about the most expensive fashion show in history? It’s Victoria’s Secret one, when the brand spent $26,7 million to produce it.
So, let’s look at the different roles and expenses required to run from the most basic to the most extravagant fashion show.
The first thing to do - and one of the most complex ones - is choosing and renting a venue, which, on average, costs $35,000. Very often, brands have to anticipate the rental a year before the day of the show, as every year they are looking for more and more original places to showcase their collections. Among some of the most iconic shows, we can remember the Chanel Fall/Winter 2017 show at the Eiffel Tower, Louis Vuitton 2020 Cruise show at the TWA flight center at New York’s John F.Kennedy Airport or the Burberry’s Fall/Winter 2020 show in London's Kensington Olympia.
Production ($25,000 on average). This part is managed by a producer who is like a project manager responsible for ensuring that all the teams are on the same page, and making sure things run smoothly the day of the show. The producer often helps to choose the right venue and set the design of the show that usually requires around $60,000. Additionally, the producer assists with model timings, choreography, music and lighting, to name a few. And just because so many things can go wrong, because this role involves such a big responsibility, organizational teams rely on runners - these people who walk around with walkie-talkies, who help front stage and backstage with absolutely anything. Actually, this is something you can do as a volunteer.
Stylists. They are in charge of the creative style and direction…
This post was becoming too long for the newsletter ;) but we have so many more juicy insights to share about fashion shows so click here to read the full article on glamobserver.com
What's happening in the industry this week💚?
Exciting debuts
Italian Harper’s Bazaar is about to release its first print issue
Italy’s Harper’s Bazaar, introduced in early 2020 as a digital-focused publication, is now planning to release its first print issue ever in December 2022. The magazine appointed as editor in chief Daria Veledeeva, who previously held the same role at Harper’s Bazaar Russia. She will be joined by Marc Ascoli as executive creative director and Sissy Vian in the role of creative fashion director.
Harris Reed is the new creative director of Nina Ricci
Harris Reed - a rising, young designer to watch, known for its gender-fluid designs, was recently chosen by the 90-year-old French fashion house Nina Ricci, owned by Spanish fragrance conglomerate Puig, as its new creative director and business chief. His first collection will be shown in Paris in early 2023.
In the last week’s newsletter we talked about fashion shifting the norms of masculinity, and now we see an example of how some brands like Nina Ricci are also starting to question the traditional perception of femininity in fashion by bringing an outspoken LGBTQI+ designer who can shake up these views and introduce a more modern and gender inclusive approach to fashion that speaks to today’s consumers. Harris Reed shared that he is “truly excited to challenge the landscape of what femininity means across fashion and beauty in such an iconic house”.
British Fashion Council appoints David Pemsel as its new chair
David Pemsel, previously CEO of Guardian Media Group and founder of ScienceMagic.Inc, was appointed as the new chair of the British Fashion Council. Curious fact: while Demsel does not have a fashion consultancy background, his aim is to “bring a fresh perspective to the BFC at a time when digital innovation, inclusivity, sustainability and a lull in consumer spending is facing the fashion industry”.
Dior first men’s Pre-fall Collection in Egypt
Fashion houses don’t stop surprising us with the fabulous venues they choose for fashion shows. The artistic director of Dior Men, Kim Jones, designed a menswear collection that will be shown for the first time in Egypt on December 3 of this year, in front of the pyramids of Giza near Cairo.
The collection, which is a celebration of the designer’s lifelong passion for travel and his long-standing relationship with the African continent, is a continuation of Dior’s tradition of traveling men’s pre-fall collections as we have seen in Italy, Greece, Spain, South Korea, China, the U.K. and the U.S. in recent years, with the last pre-fall runway collections in Miami and Tokyo.
New openings
Valentino opens a new Pink PP installation
The brand will partner with Hypebeast, a renowned destination for menswear to men’s contemporary fashion and streetwear, to open yet another, gorgeous Pink PP installation at its store at 41 Division Street in Manhattan’s Chinatown. To celebrate the collaboration, Valentino will also create 20 pairs of the Pink PP, which are numbered and signed by Piccioli and will be sold at $1,430.
Although Valentino’s brand color has always been red, for the Fall/Winter 2022-2023 season Piccioli worked with the Pantone Color Institute to create an intense magenta pink color that we have seen so far in other installations in Milan and New York.
What’s new in the Beauty industry 💄
Brad Pitt launches a skincare line
Brad Pitt imagined a new skincare brand “Le Domaine” that he developed in partnership with the Perrin family of the renowned Château de Beaucastel vintners who are also Pitt’s partners in Château Miraval, property and vineyard in the South of France that Pitt bought with Angelina Jolie in 2012.
In an interview he shared with Vogue, the actor shared that the concept is based around the familiar story of grape-based antioxidants that has long been mined by more established brands. Le Domaine appointed one of the world’s leading wine and human health specialists, University of Bordeaux Professor of Oenology Pierre-Louis Teissedre, to determine which of the 13 grape varieties the Perrin family grows on its estates in Provence had the most relevant antioxidant properties. The line is 96% natural and vegan, with wooden caps recycled from old wine casks and refillable bottles.
Barneys New York is now a beauty brand
You probably have heard of Barneys as a fashion brand, but after it filed for bankruptcy in 2019 and closed its stores, Barneys returned to the market as a brand selling beauty and wellness products, including bottled water.
The Authentic Brands Group, who acquired the retailer for 271.4 million, partnered with South Korea-based Gloent Group and introduced the new Barneys beauty brand during New York Fashion Week, where products were used to prep the skin of models walking in the Tommy Hilfiger show.
The line will launch in the US, South Korea and Japan and will be sold at barneys-beauty.com, and will also be available on Saks’ website later this year.
Nice things 💖
Saint Laurent invites to an exclusive culinary event at Paris Fashion Week
From next week at Paris Fashion Week, guests will be able to attend a high-end culinary event at the Saint Laurent Rive Droite store from September 28 to October 7. The brand’s creative director Anthony Vaccarello invited Peter Park, chef at one of the best restaurants based in Los Angeles - Sushi Park, and this is the first time that the restaurant brings this kind of experience to another destination.
What to listen to this week 🎙
This week, we have an interesting podcast from BoF for you to listen instead of watching a video as usually ;), about how brands choose their creative directors.
We often hear about new creative directors coming up and taking the lead of fashion houses, while managing their own brands on the side. Sometimes the choice of the creative director may surprise you- as in the case of Harris Reed at Nina Ricci - and you may ask yourself what motivates a brand when choosing the creative director. This podcast can give you some insights. Enjoy!
Fashion Profiles to follow this week 👩🏻💻
Harris Reed the emerging designer just appointed at Nina Ricci is one to watch
MFW If you want to see what’s happening during Milan Fashion Week right now, this is the page you are looking for ;)
Your Fashion Jobs Date 🔍
Here is for you an updated list of fashion jobs and internships. Happy application ;)
London
Vivienne Westwood - Ecommerce Studio Assistant Intern, Wibledon
Hobbs London - Design Internship, London
XTENDED iDENTiTY - Xi digital marketing internship, London
River Island - Emerging Talent - Merchandising, London
BDA London - Junior Trend Forecaster, London
REISS - Buying Admin Assistant-Graduate opportunity
Stella McCartney - PR Graduate Trainee (12 Month FTC)
Harvey Nichols - Merchandise Allocator, London
Christian Dior Couture - Retail Junior Manager - Selfridges London, UK, London
Burberry - Digital Product Designer, London
Off-White - Sales Assistant, London
New York
DIOR - Visual Merchandising Trainee, New York
Saks Fifth Avenue - Influence Intern, New York
DEREK LAM 10 CROSBY - Social Media Marketing Internship, New York
Tory Burch - Assistant Merchant, Special Capsules, New York
7 For All Mankind - Stylist, New York
Vera Wang - Digital Marketing Coordinator, New York, New York
Canada Goose - Communications Specialist, US, New York
Coach - Assistant Buyer, Outlet, New York
Meison - Assistant Fashion Designer, New York
J.Crew - Social Writer, New York
Milan
Loro Piana - EMEA Controlling Internship, Milan
DIESEL - Internship Retail Back Office, Milan
Moncler - Digital Analyst Internship, Milan
Moncler - Omnichannel Client Events Internship, Milan
DOLCE&GABBANA - Training Product industrialization, times & methods and process mapping, Milan
New Guards Group - Administration Intern, e-commerce & retail, Milan
La DoubleJ - Wholesale Assistant / B2B Back Office & Sales Intern, Milan
Fabiana Filippi - Retail Operations Specialist, Milan
Prada Group - IT eCommerce Analyst Front End, Milan
Stella McCartney - IS&T Finance Specialist, Milan
Paris
Condé Nast France - Stage - Rédaction web AD H/F, Paris
Margaux Lonnberg - Assistant Stylist, Paris
Balmain - Stagiaire Assistant.e E-Commerce Balmain.com H/F, Paris
CHANEL - STAGE Assitant(e) Marketing Retail & Expérience Client (H/F) - Mode Europe (Janvier 2023), Paris
DIOR - Assistant Formation Mode & Style F/H - Stage, Paris
DIOR - Assistant Attaché de Presse Shopping International F/H - Stage, Paris
Valentino - Retail Coordinator Western Europe CDI Paris, Paris
Tomorrow London - Junior Product Developer, Paris
Nomadiya - Responsable Marketing et Communication, Paris
Loewe - Sales Assistant, Paris
That’s all for this week.
Forward this email to your fashion friends :)
Giada Graziano, Inside Fashion Editor in Chief and Glam Observer Founder
Margarita Skacenko, Fashion Editorial Assistant
Follow us on Instagram @glamobserver
Read our website: glamobserver.com