Is Vogue really making fashion more inclusive?
plus an updated list of fashion jobs and internships
This is Inside Fashion a newsletter brought to you by Glam Observer that each week covers behind-the-scenes of fashion, industry news, career advice, profiles to follow, jobs and more!
What’s new at Vogue?
With the recent out-of-the-blue cover of the British VOGUE’s October issue portraying Timothée Chalamet, and the first-ever live streamed runway show at the Vogue World event this Monday, it has become clear that renowned fashion magazine Vogue is stepping out of the traditional ways to bring fashion to the public.
For the first time in British Vogue’s 106-year history, this month chose a man for the cover: the famous actor Timothée Chalamet, wearing a pearl choker on the cover, and other photographs show him in a pink wig, and wearing leather trousers.
Even though it seems like men have never been on the covers of fashion magazines, there are precedents in the magazine’s history. If we look at the archives of decades ago, actor Helmut Berger was the first man ever to be photographed with Marisa Berenson by David Bailey in 1970. We also had Manolo Blahnik with Anjelica Huston in 1974, Robbie Williams with Giselle in 2000 and Marcus Rashford with Adwoa Aboah in 2020. More recently, Harry Styles’ former bandmate Zayn Malik was actually the first man for British Vogue, appearing on a digital cover in 2018. And then - Harry Styles himself was the first man on the cover of American Vogue in 2020.
So why did Vogue decide to put men up-front again?
Vogue’s editor-in-chief, Edward Enninful stated that he “always held off from a man-only print magazine cover [...] Forever conscious of Vogue being a space that celebrates women first”.
Traditionally, fashion magazines may have been falsely associated with women. They celebrated women and gave them power putting them front row, on the covers. The first reason could be that notorious magazines, but also the rising independent digital publications do not only cover fashion-related topics; they also promote a lifestyle and celebrate culture and art. Secondly, when we talk about fashion today, we think about diversity, inclusivity and unisex, so saying that “this is for women” and “this is for men” is a little old-fashioned. The new generation dismantles old-fashioned notions of masculinity, In the modern world, fashion is for everybody.
In this context, it’s understandable why Vogue chose Timothée Chalamet as the face of the British October issue. The actor has long been admired for his style and known for his fashion-forward and genderless choices as you may have seen his Red Carpet looks.
But it’s not only the fashion print landscape that is changing and becoming gender-inclusive. For the first time in the history of fashion, on September 12, (almost) every interested fashion enthusiast had the opportunity to attend a live runway show at the Vogue World event - or watch it online “from the front row” as any other top leaders of the fashion industry.
This Monday, September 12, Vogue organized an epic runway show and street fair at the heart of New York City’s fashionable Meatpacking district, marking Vogue's 130-year anniversary.
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The show opened with a parade of people representing different countries all over the world, signifying the global impact that Vogue has had for over a century, followed by the top supermodels such as Emily Ratajkowski, Kendall Jenner, Karlie Kloss and the Hadid sisters. Non-supermodels also hit the runway: Serena Williams, Mikhail Baryshnikov, Erykah Badhu, Hari Nef, Jeremy O. Harris, Brooklyn and Nicola Peltz Beckham.
Some brands like Ralph Lauren, Gucci Osteria, Michael Kors and Burberry even placed food trucks.
If Vogue is becoming more inclusive by bringing men on the cover, its tentative of making it inclusive by bringing people closer and letting them attend its fashion event is still far away from accessible. Vogue World first-row tickets were sold at $3,000 making it unsustainable for a fashion enthusiast who wants to be part of this world. This event can so be considered a new revenue stream for the fashion publishing leader. The magazine industry has been disrupted a lot in the past years with social media and digital magazines becoming more relevant. Print advertising in the past drove the profits of magazines but now Vogue & Co, have to reinvent themselves and find new ways to generate revenue when many print issues have been shut down.
What's happening in the industry this week💚?
Kanye West and Gap terminate partnership
The famous singer, who now goes by Ye, recently walked away from his relationship with Gap Inc. that he qualifies as “troubled”.
What we can take from the ongoing legal back-and-forth of their collaboration is that according to the company’s Gap brand chief executive officer Mark Breitbard, “While we share a vision of bringing high-quality, trend-forward, utilitarian design to all people through unique omni experiences with Yeezy Gap, how we work together to deliver this vision is not aligned.” On the other hand, Kanye West is alleging that Gap failed to live up to its agreement to distribute Yeezy products in stores or open dedicated stores to the line.
Prada Group has acquired a minority interest in Superior
The Italian luxury company said Thursday it has acquired a 43.7 percent stake in Superior S.p.A, a 60-year-old tannery based in Santa Croce Sull’Arno, on the outskirts of Pisa, Italy.
“The acquisition of a shareholding in Superior SpA represents another important step in the strategic direction toward vertical integration of the Prada Group’s supply chain, through investments in infrastructure and people, to increase our industrial know-how as well as control quality along all manufacturing stages,” said Patrizio Bertelli, chief executive officer of the Prada Group, committed to the Italian supply chain.
As of January 2022, Superior is the world’s first tannery to be certified Carbon Neutral, in line with the Sustainable Development Goals. The company recently heightened its sustainability credentials, including energy efficiency and water-saving programs.
Yvon Chouinard sells Patagonia
The family of founder Yvon Chouinard transferred ownership of the firm to two new entities - the Patagonia Purpose Trust and the Holdfast Collective - now holding 98% of the company that is set up to use its $100 million in annual profits to fight climate change.
Under the watch of Chouinard, Patagonia became an eco reference point, showing fashion the direction forward. The goal of this transferred ownership is to keep protecting nature and biodiversity, support thriving communities and fight the environmental crisis. This sets a new chapter of progress in sustainability efforts in the fashion industry.
Inditex shows strong increase in sales
The parent company of brands Massimo Dutti, Pull&Bear and Bershka, with 6,370 stores worldwide, reported an increase in sales to up to 25 percent, fueling the strongest first-half gross margin in seven years.
Chief executive officer Oscar Garcia Maceiras credited four factors: “Our unique fashion proposition, an increasingly optimized shopping experience for our customers, our focus on sustainability and the talent and commitment of our people. Our business model is progressing at full pace and has great growth potential going forward.”
Zara continues to be the strongest brand in the Inditex group. The fast-fashion company’s sales were up 29 percent as it continues to expand with a stronger offer of designer-inspired items, including its Night collection, with a much-publicized campaign starring Kate Moss.
COS’s surprising debut at NYFW
The brand, launched in 2007, showed their debut Fall/Winter 2022 collection during New York Fashion Week and it seems like it has setted a new tone.
The minimalistic brand, great to find fall wardrobe essentials at a reasonable price, is traditionally known for using clean and neutral colors. However, this time the label surprised with bold and bright colors that made an appearance at the show opening.
Calzedonia at Paris Fashion Week
For the first time, the Italian innerwear, hosiery and swimwear group will stage an event on Sept. 26 titled “Calzedomania — A legs celebration,” marking the first time it will showcase its legwear overseas, as well as its debut during fashion week.
Calzedonia has previously held fashion events in Italy though, including the Calzedonia Leg Show, held in Verona in 2017 in the presence of Julia Roberts, its brand ambassador at the time, and the Calzedonia Forever Together Summer Show in Rimini, Italy, in 2013 with Sarah Jessica Parker.
The reason for the Group entering the luxury world? Its acquisition of a majority stake in Italian fashion label Antonio Marras.
Nice things
Is that Andy from The Devil Wears Prada?
An epic picture spread online of Anne Hathaway and Anna Wintour sitting together in the front row at the Michael Kors show this Wednesday, giving an exciting feeling of The Devil Wears Prada in real life. Fans couldn’t get over how much the actress looked like her onscreen alter ego, especially with her Andy-style bangs, and couldn’t help but make an association with Miranda Priestly.
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Pink lovers, Valentino Pink PP is now officially a Pantone color 💖
Fashion Profiles to follow this week
Patagonia The Californian outdoor clothing brand. It will be interesting to follow the brand’s new path to sustainability.
Edward Enninful British Vogue EIC to watch his interview with the cover star Timothee and his new memoir Invisible Man
Your Fashion Jobs Date
Here is for you an updated list of fashion jobs and internships. Happy application ;)
London
Alexander McQueen - Graduate Trainee, Knitwear Design, London
Christian Dior Couture - Sales Internship, London
Ralph Lauren - CRM Intern, London
Chanel - Visual Merchandiser, London
Chanel - Fashion Operations Assistant
AllSaints - PR Assistant, London
NEXT - Sales Coordinator - Uxbridge, London
Paul Smith - Digital Marketing Assistant, London
ASOS - Social Media Executive - SPORTSWEAR, London
YOOX NET-A-PORTER - SEO Specialist - Technical, London
New York
Retrofête - Photography Intern, New York
ASHYA - Design & Development Intern - Accessories, New York
Neiman Marcus Group - Personal Shopper Selling Assistant, New York
AMERICAN EAGLE OUTFITTERS INC. - Assistant - Aerie Global Merchandising, New York
Coach - Studio & Sample Coordinator, eCommerce Photography, New York
Kate Spade New York - Materials Development Coordinator, New York
STAUD - Stylist, New York
J.Crew - Marketing Associate, New York
Neiman Marcus Group - Digital Merchandiser, New York
SMCP - District Retail Excellence Specialist - New York City Region, New York
Milan
Moncler - Digital Merchandising Internship, Milan
Off-White - Merchandising Intern, Milan
TALLY WEiJL - Franchise Relations Assistant (Internship), Milan
Alexander McQueen - Stage Ufficio Wholesale, Milan
Valentino - Global Retail Operations Specialist, Milan
DOLCE&GABBANA - Product Development Specialist, Milan
New Guards Group - Digital Backend Assistant, Milan
Stella McCartney - Sales Assistant, Milan
Patrizia Pepe - Social Media Coordinator, Milan
TRUSSARDI - E-Commerce & CRM Analyst, Milan
Paris
Lacoste - Wholesale merchandising strategy Assistant, Paris
Christian Dior Couture - Assistant Supply & Distribution RTW & Shoes Woman, Paris
Balmain - Stage Assistant.e Process et Méthodes / Dév. de Collection, Paris
Maison Margiela - Retail Buying Assistant Internship, Paris
Céline - Assistant(e) Collection Merchandising Shoes, Paris
JOOR - Customer Success Intern - Brand, Paris
Vince - Sales Associate, Paris
Lacoste - Data Analyst, Paris
Lululemon - Assistant Manager | St Germain, Paris
Zimmermann - Visual Merchandising Coordinator Wholesale EMEA, Paris
That’s all for this week.
Forward this email to your fashion friends :)
Giada Graziano, Inside Fashion Editor in Chief and Glam Observer Founder
Margarita Skacenko Editorial Assistant
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