Who is Peter Marino and why he's designing bags for Louis Vuitton + the skills you need to work in fashion
plus the updated list of fashion jobs and internships
This is Inside Fashion a newsletter brought to you by Glam Observer that each week covers behind-the-scenes of fashion, industry news, career advice, profiles to follow, jobs and more!
How Louis Vuitton connects art with fashion
This week, the fashion industry saw the French luxury brand Louis Vuitton unveil its fourth Artycapucines 2022 Collection at the Paris+, the new art fair from the organizers of Art Basel at the Grand Palais Éphémère in Paris, where the brand is currently exposing from October 20 to 22. The new collection features 9 new handbags designed by 6 contemporary artists: Peter Marino, Amélie Bertrand, Daniel Buren, Park Seo-Bo, Ugo Rondinone and Kennedy Yanko, who reimagined the famous bag named after Rue Neuve-des-Capucines, where Louis Vuitton opened his first store in 1854.
The collection demonstrates the ability to blend artistic talent and invention with the craftsmanship of the Maison's masterful artisans.
An artist who particularly caught the fashion scene’s attention is Peter Marino, who created a unique version of the Capucines handbag, first introduced in 2013. It comes in a black color, and is composed of leather straps, nail heads and medieval-inspired hardware he discovered when he was visiting a 14th-century building in Venice, intrigued by its heavy straps and strange locking mechanism.
Who is Peter Marino and why is he designing handbags?
Peter Marino is fashion’s most in-demand architect of luxury fashion stores who is widely credited for redefining modern luxury through equal emphasis on architecture and interior design.
Graduated from Cornell University, he began his career at Skidmore Owings & Merrill, George Nelson and I.M. Pei/ Cossutta & Ponte. He was designing residential properties for the Rothschild and Agnelli families. Then in 1985, he was approached by the Pressman family to redesign Barneys New York - a project that increased his popularity.
Founder of Peter Marino Architecture PLLC, Peter Marino has designed more than 300 site-specific art projects buildings across the world for luxury giants like Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Christian Dior, Giorgio Armani, Zegna, Calvin Klein and Fendi. Among his famous buildings we can find the flagship Bulgari store in Place Vendôme, the Dior flagship stores in Paris, Beijing and Seoul, a Louis Vuitton boutique in Ginza (Tokyo), Chanel buildings in Los Angeles, Paris and New York, and a high rise tower for Chanel in Tokyo. The designer is also famous for building the Cheval Blanc Hotel in Paris in the historic “La Samaritaine” store and the Cheval Blanc Beverly Hills Hotel. The innovative use of light, space and integration of contemporary artwork present in his designs is what redifined the standard for upmarket retail design.
However, his iconic storefronts across the globe is not the only designer’s passion. It appears that he does have a thing for handbags. In fact, Peter Marino designed his first handbag about 40 years ago — a leather sack for himself that looks like a mail-carrier bag, since he did not wish to use a hard briefcase. For the new Capucines collection, he said about his handbag: “Is it a handbag, or a sculpture? I know at least three women who collect handbags and put them under glass.”. The designer shared that he wants “to be the first person to animate bags - everything done for handbags bores me to tears,"."I want to make it more playful." In addition, his idea was to create a practical day-bag.
Another reason for taking on this project is Peter Marino’s taste of collecting everything from cookie jars to contemporary art. He called his creation “a conversation-sparking object to display at home”, which shows us that besides making a beautiful accessory to carry around, the designer also sees it as a piece of conservation - an art object that can be admired.
This project demonstrates us that artists of any kind can contribute to the creation of a fashion item. Louis, Vuitton is among brands increasingly blurring the lines between fashion and art, and the new limited Artycapucines Collection is a proof of that.
What's happening in the industry this week?💚
Amazon opens a new luxury online store
Amazon presented on October 20th its latest Amazon Luxury Store launched in partnership with the reseller What Goes Around Comes Around that is placing on Amazon’s site pre-owned 500 items from some big fashion luxury brands like Louis Vuitton, Hermès, Chanel, Prada and Gucci. Some of the bestsellers that will be sold include Chanel quilted bags and gold costume jewelry, Louis Vuitton monogram fare, Prada saffiano leather totes, and Hermès scarves and classic bags like Birkins and Kellys. The inventory is planning to expand during the next two months to 2,000 bags, as well as select small accessories and jewelry.
Dior Teams With Thebe Magugu for Charity Project
The Johannesburg-based designer Thebe Magugu, who won the 2019 LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers, was tasked by the creative director of Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri, to reinterpret the New Look, all in aid of the Charlize Theron Africa Outreach Project, a charity that aids South African youth.
For this collaborative project, the designer reimagined the New Look’s hallmark cinched jacket as a cotton T-shirt. He also created some accessories for the capsule, such as the Dior Book Tote with the same motif as the T-shirt, a bucket hat, a silk twill scarf, and lace-up Dior camp boots. The limited-edition capsule collection drops on October 27 at Dior’s flagship boutiques in Paris, New York, and Los Angeles.
PRADA GROUP & UNFPA create a fashion training program in Ghana and Kenya
The United Nations sexual and reproductive health agency and Prada Group worked together on a pilot program called “Fashion Expressions: The Stories She Wears”. With the aim to leverage the social and economic power of fashion as a vehicle to promote women’s empowerment in Ghana and Kenya, the program provides knowledge in a number of areas, including fashion design and production, with a focus on local traditions and styles, re/upcycled fashion, traditional textile design, and financial literacy.
Zara enters the resale market with pre-owned service
Zara is about to launch a Pre-owned service on November 3. It is meant to help shoppers to resell, book a repair or donate clothing online or via a store with the goal to reduce the environmental impact.
Sketchers is suing Hermès
The footwear brand Skechers has recently filed a case against the luxury giant Hermès, claiming that the brand’s recent designs - Éclair and Envol, launched in 2022 -, infringe on a number of its patents for the Sketchers Massage Fit technology, which it uses in its Go Walk series and other product lines.
Rihanna’s Savage x Fenty launches a new sportswear collection
Savage x Fenty, which was cofounded as a lingerie brand by Rihanna and TechStyles Fashion Group in 2018, revealed plans for its latest fashion show -“Savage x Fenty Show Vol. 4” on Amazon Prime. The retailer said it is adding sportswear to the assortment, with design director of sport and lounge, Adam Selman. The collection includes lingerie-inspired pieces such as sports bras, leggings and jumpsuits, and will be available November 9 (the same day as the next fashion show), with VIP access on select styles starting November 1st at savagex.com and in Savage x stores.
Burberry raises its employers’ salaries
In light of the rising cost of living, the luxury British brand Burberry has implemented the new UK real Living Wage pay rates to support its staff in light of the rising cost of living. The brand has been a UK real Living Wage employer since 2016, and has implemented the increased rates from 1 October 2022, ahead of the deadline for accredited employers of 14 May 2023.
Louis Vuitton traveling “200 Trunks, 200 Visionaries" exhibition comes to New York
In 2021, Louis Vuitton inaugurated a project “200 Trunks, 200 Visionaries” exhibition that was meant to commemorate the 200th birthday of the founder. First seen in Asnières, France, at the Louis Vuitton Family House, then in Singapore and Los Angeles, the exhibition arrived at its final spot - at Barneys New York Building, and will be open from October 14 through December 31. The exhibit displays 200 trunks designed by 200 visionary brands and figures who were tasked with customizing their pieces with timeless LV staple.
Max Mara has a new Permanent Artwork at its Milan flagship store
The Italian fashion brand, collaborating with the founding family’s contemporary art museum Collezione Maramotti, has unveiled an artwork installation called “Microlima” at the Max Mara store in Milan. It was created by the French artist Eva Jospin, who said the idea was to create “a work that, while conceived to be long-lasting, would show characteristics connected to the idea of impermanence. Inserted in an urban context the work should stimulate a reflection on a different perception of the natural, physical and poetic space.”
What’s new in the beauty industry 💄
Jared Leto launches a beauty and skincare brand
The actor has announced his new lifestyle brand “TwentyNine Palms”, which is launching with 11 gender-neutral products for the body, face and hair. The packaging is inspired by the Mojave Desert in Nevada, with refillable violet-hued glass, aluminum, and the recycled plastic bottles.
Ganni is partnering with Submission beauty on a limited capsule
The Danish fashion brand Ganni and the Los Angeles-based upstart known for its biodegradable zero-plastic products, are launching a limited capsule of glitter, which is made from a natural and plant-derived material and available in three colors: pink, gold and silver. Known for its sustainable innovation, Ganni has been a signatory of the New Plastics Economy Global Commitment launched by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation since 2019.
Fashion Career Tip of the Week
Want to know what skills recruiters look for in candidates in the fashion industry?
In our latest article, we break down the most important skills that are common between different roles, as well as the skill set that is usually required for a specific fashion career.
Learn what skills are needed for your dream job in fashion, start practicing them and make sure to include them in your application.
Nice things 💖
Yesterday, Zara was owning the New York City skyline, displaying its products right over there to make sure no one missed the new arrivals. We are even more impressed by this video than the collection!
What to listen to this week 🎙️
Last Friday, we attended the Vogue annual conference Forces of Fashion, where we learned some valuable lessons from fashion professionals. So this weekend, you can listen to our podcast to learn more about the event.
We will chat about:
Being flexible with Schiaparelli's Daniel Roseberry and his career advice
How creative directors choose fashion show locations with Kim Jones + his career advice
Imposter syndrome with Gigi Hadid and how to fight your self-doubt and fears
You can listen to it on Apple Podcasts or Spotify.
Fashion Profiles to follow this week
Peter Marino.The architect who designed buildings for the biggest luxury fashion brands is one to watch.
Thebe Magugu. The South African designer who is quickly building his name in the fashion industry.
Your Fashion Jobs Date 🔍
Here is for you an updated list of fashion jobs and internships. Happy application ;)
London
Personal Assistant - People Team - FARFETCH
Editorial intern - Citizen Femme
Office & Retail Assistant - Tiffany&Co.
Junior Photographer - MATCHESFASHION
Temporary Buying Assistant - Paul Smith
Brand Marketing Assistant - FARFETCH (Browns Fashion)
Leather Goods and Accessories Design Work Placement - JW Anderson
Battersea Stockroom Assistant - ME+EM
Junior Merchandiser - HUGO BOSS
E-commerce Content Assistant - BIANCA SAUNDERS
Social Media Content Creator Sister Jane
New York
Social media intern - ALTUZARRA
Spring - Summer 23 Patternmaking Intern - AREA
Fashion Design Intern, January 2023 - Natori
NYC Internship Spring 2023 - Place Showroom
Merchandising Assistant, Men's Shoes - Neiman Marcus
Business Analyst, Mens Planning - Tommy Hilfiger
Data Entry Specialist - La Garçonne
Milan
E-Store Management Junior Specialist - PRADA Group
Chief Information Officer Internship - GIORGIO ARMANI
Stage Trade Marketing - VALENTINO
Digital Intern - MUSE MAGAZINE
Stage Grafica 3D - NARA CAMICIE
Zara Milano (cc Portello) Cerca Stagista Visual Merchandiser
Merchandising Assistant - Intern - G-III LEATHER FASHIONS (DKNY)
Junior Visual Merchandising - BOGGI MILANO
Stage Ufficio Prodotto - CAMICISSIMA
Junior Specialist Contabilità e Bilancio Retail - ETRO
Paris
Onsite & CRM Alternance/Internship - Vestiaire Collective
Stage - Assistant Contrôle de Gestion (H/F) - ZADIG ET VOLTAIRE
Stagiaire Collection - MARINE SERRE
Stage - Assistant Chef de Projet Architecture H/F - LONGCHAMP
Ready-to-Wear Merchandising Assistant - A.P.C.
Saint Laurent Assistant Studio Matières H/F- YVES SAINT LAURENT
Sales Manager E-Commerce Homme et Enfant H/F - GALERIES LAFAYETTE
Développeur Accessoire H/F - CLAUDIE PIERLOT
CDI - Gestionnaire Approvisionnement France & Europe F/H - THE KOOPLES
That’s all for this week.
Forward this email to your fashion friends :)
Giada Graziano, Inside Fashion Editor in Chief and Glam Observer Founder
Margarita Skacenko, Fashion Editorial Assistant
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