What Schiaparelli's first ready-to-wear collection means for the brand + How much fashion shows cost
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Daniel Roseberry staged its first Fall 2023 ready-to-wear collection for the House Schiaparelli at Paris Fashion Week this Thursday. Built over the past 3 years, the ready-to-wear line marks a milestone in Schiaparelli’s history and the evolution it has undercome since Daniel Roseberry’s appointment as creative director in 2019. Let’s take a look at what it’s about, why the designer decided to go into ready-to-wear, and what’s the difference with Haute Couture collections.
The first ready-to-wear collection is part of Schiaparelli’s mission to revive the house.
“Our mission this season was straightforward—to present an entire wardrobe, complete with everything from crisp white poplin shirts to short velvet cocktail dress, and to infuse these classics with Schiaparelli’s trademark wit, irreverence, and drama.” Daniel Roseberry
It includes both daywear and eveningwear with black as its core color, including Roseberry’s signature elements like the gold buttons and the cone bra, combined with traditionally masculine fabrics and tonal shades, as well as the expanded shoewear and accessories, such as The Schiap trapunto baguette that references the iconic 1937 “Schoking” fragrance, and some jewelry proper to Maison’s identity.
“This isn’t show one, this is show zero. It’s like the foundation”, said the creative director explaining the runway, adding “I really want people to leave knowing what the Schiaparelli wardrobe is and wanting it all”. It’s more a collection for clients, inspired by the clients, and I want there to be something very cozy and natural about it too, and very sensual. It’s not as much of a performance as the couture,” he said in a statement to WWD.
About the difference with Schiaparelli’s Haute Couture collections
You could think that the ready-to-wear line is about being more accessible to a wider range of customers, however, prices will range from 1,750 euros to 27,000 euros. Rather than the price, it’s more about something else. The creative director described it as “This isn’t Zara for rich people”. “From our clientele, there’s no desire for something that feels more attainable at this point. I think that people want to feel like they’re getting something extraordinary”. So the idea may be to bring to people the “extraordinary” Schiaparelli, but in a more wearable version, so that people can feel and look fantastic and original in their everyday life (even though the designer doesn’t like that word, but to put it simply, that’s the idea).
According to Nicole Phelps’s Schiaparelli’s runway review for Vogue, “Where it differed from the couture most significantly was in the fabrications.”
Daniel Roseberry’s work at the House has been inspired by the founder’s Elsa Schiaparelli bold designs, and the new ready-to-wear line is no exception: “It was really about going back to the roots of the way that Elsa dressed herself,” he shared with WWD. In fact, the first American to head a French couture house brought back in 2019 the typical surrealism that defined Schiaparelli and has transformed it into one of today’s most talked-about brands. He has steadily expanded the offering, which now includes tailoring, knitwear, denim, leather and shearling, and eveningwear, and now a footwear and handbag line.
Currently, the French House has only one salon-boutique at 21 Place Vendôme in Paris, a permanent store at Bergdorf Goodman in New York, and a shop-in-shop - a permanent store at Harrods in London which opened in January, and Daniel Roseberry is planning to expand the boutiques.
For a little history about Schiaparelli, it was founded by Elsa Schiaparelli, who was an Italian fashion designer and couturier, and one of the most prominent figures in fashion and art of the 20th century. She opened her first atelier in 1927, introducing the infamous Trompe l’oeil, and later the Shocking pink, and the Lobster dress, which are among her most famous creations. In 1947, Hubert de Givenchy was hired as creative director of the House where he stayed for 4 years, and in 1954, the founder decided to close it. The Maison wasn’t revived until 2007 when Diego Della Valle, chairman of Tod’s Group acquired it. In 2013, he hired Christian Lacroix as the artistic director, who designed a 15-piece haute couture collection to honor the legacy of Elsa Schiaparelli. Later that year, Marco Zanini took the helm of the establishment, continuing to revive the house and creating 2 haute couture collections, bringing back the haute couture runway since 1954, but he left the House in November 2014. In 2015, Bertrand Guyon was named Style director of the house. His collections were characterized by frequent allusions to classic Schiaparelli designs. Finally, in April 2019 was appointed the current creative director Daniel Roseberry.
What are your thoughts on the new ready-to-wear collection? Do you like Schiaparelli? You can share in the comments below.
What's happening in the industry this week?💚
Rihanna announces the return of Fenty x Puma collaboration
The announcement didn’t come with details regarding the release date of this new Rihanna’s collaboration with Puma nor what pieces the collection will include. However, it is much awaited, since the signer has a long-standing relationship with the sportswear brand; Rihanna served as Puma’s creative director in 2014 and did a collaboration in 2017.
Zegna unveils a capsule collection with The Elder Statesman
The Italian company Zegna and the Los-Angeles based The Elder Statesman presented their new line on the first day of Paris Fashion Week. The capsule collection which comprises cardigans, sweaters, robe coats, and pajama suits made of natural fibers and presents a blend of Zegna’s classical neutral palette with The Elder Statesman’s bold, vibrant colors, “was designed to be worn by people of any age and gender, as demonstrated by the look book, shot in Milan on nonprofessional models”, according to WWD.
The event marked the first collaboration for Zegna’s Oasi Cashmere project, launched last September as part of its wider commitment to make its entire textile offering traceable by 2030. The Elder Statesman’s creative director Bailey Hunter explained the idea to WWD as “We wanted to have something that tells a full story, so it’s totally traceable, it’s sustainable, but it’s also a project that works for tomorrow”.
Anna Sui unveils a limited edition of her fairy wings reissue for Heaven by Marc Jacobs
First unveiled during her spring 1997 collection, Anna Sui reinvented the fairy wings to create a limited edition reissue for Heaven by Marc Jacobs that launched in September 2020 and is built around characters who have made up the Marc Jacobs universe in the past 30 years. Handcrafted in Anna Sui’s New York City studio, these wings with beaded necklace are meant to be “wearable art”. The collection launches today with the wings priced at $570.
Bodega, Beams, and Adidas release a joint apparel and footwear collection
The collaborative collection takes inspiration from the ivy style of the 1950s and 1960s, including standout pieces like blazers and dress shirts, and hoodies, but also T-shirts, trousers, sweatpants, neck ties, and accessories. It also includes 2 Adidas sneaker styles: the Campus, which is designed in gray suede with brown stitching, green lining, and gold stamping; and the Adimatic, which is designed in beige suede with extra wide green stripes and laces. The collection will be available starting March 10 with prices ranging from $15 to $250.
Ralph Lauren creates a collection for the “Creed III” movie
The American label partnered with MGSM Studios to create the “Adonis Creed for Ralph Lauren” collection for the “Creed III” movie. The six made-to-measure pieces including suits, sweatshirts, and a trench coat, among others, are worn in the film by Michael Jordan who is playing Adonis Creed and is, by the way, the new face of Ralph Lauren’s Purple Label.
Adonis Creed for Ralph Lauren marks the first time that pieces featured in a film will actually be made available for sale to consumers. Launched on Thursday, the line’s price range is expected to go from $650 to $9,000, depending on the made-to-measure piece.
Christian Louboutin celebrates the 30th anniversary of the Red Sole
Yesterday, March 2nd, Louboutin staged its third '“Loubi show” at Paris Fashion Week to unveil the Women Fall/Winter 2023 collection and celebrate the 30th anniversary of the Red Sole. It was a dance performance choreographed by Sadeck Berrabah and accompanied by a musical performance and, featuring the Neodance Academy.
Take a look at the photos here.
Burberry is to release its first book
The British brand is celebrating its 160-year-old story with its first book, produced by Assouline. The 252-page book is divided into 5 chapters, tracing Burberry’s history, evolution, and signature pieces from its launch in 1856 to the present day. It also includes 200 illustrations and imagery from Christopher Bailey and Riccardo Tisci’s tenure at Burberry as the House’s ex-creative directors. The book will be released on March 28.
What’s new in sustainability? 🌱
Prada to hold a conference cycle in Hong Kong and Milan
The sophomore edition of Prada Frames, a symposium conceived by Milan and Netherlands-based design studio Formafantasma will be held in Hong Kong on March 21 and 22 and in Milan on April 17 to 19. Centered on the theme “Materials in Flux”, the conference will explore the complex relationship between the natural environment and design and discuss waste as material.
Fashion Career Tip of the Week
Want to know what skills recruiters look for in candidates in the fashion industry?
On glamobserver.com, we break down the most important skills that are common between different roles, as well as the skill set that is usually required for a specific fashion career.
Learn what skills are needed for your dream job in fashion here, start practicing them, and make sure to include them in your application.
Nice things 💖
Lily Collins’ photoshoot for Harper’s Bazaar UK. She is also on the cover of the magazine’s latest digital issue. See all the photos here.
What to listen to this week 🎙️
Are you considering a career in fashion journalism and want to get career advice from a fellow fashion writer?
For my new episode on The Glam Observer podcast, I talked to Georgia Rhodes, a final-year marketing student with already a lot of big fashion magazines on her resume including Marie Claire, Glamour, Elle, and Harpers Bazaar. Now she is working as a Content Writer for Farfetch and interning at CR Fashion Book.
I met Georgia in 2020 as she is one of the students of my online course Break into the fashion industry + The Fashion Writer Accelerator. In the past 3 years, she has achieved so much landing one internship after another at major fashion magazines, even though she doesn’t live in a fashion capital!
Georgia will explain everything about:
Her fears and doubts about getting the first internship
How she manages these jobs remotely
The strategy she used to land multiple internships at Glamour, Elle, CR Fashion Book without living in a fashion capital
The tools she uses at her job
and more!
You can’t miss this episode! Listen to it on Apple Podcasts and Spotify.
What to watch this week 📺
If you are looking for a show to binge-watch this weekend, today Netflix releases the second season of Next in Fashion. Presented by Tan France and Gigi Hadid as the new co-host, this new season will follow 12 designers who will be competing to showcase their looks on a global stage.
What to read this week 📚
Welcome to the new section of this newsletter! Today, we have 2 interesting reads for you.
If you are watching fashion shows and wondering how much they cost, in our recent article on glamobserver.com, we break down everything you need to know about fashion shows: how much they cost, what it takes to produce them, and what's the ROI.
You will learn:
✨What are the average expenses for a 10-15min show
✨What are the different elements needed to organize a fashion show and how much does each of them cost
✨What's the return on investment
✨The media impact value (MIV) of some past best-performing shows
Read the article here.
Plus, ELLE published an interesting article about Jonathan Anderson, Loewe’s creative director that you can read here.
Here is a preview and fun fact about the designer and his collection:
“Jonathan is a cultural omnivore. He watches everything. He goes to every exhibit. He reads everything. He’s constantly metabolizing everything he finds cool: art; television; fashion, both contemporary and archival; books; films. And he makes them into clothes.”
“You always think you’re going to burn out. Every time I do a collection, I feel like I’m about to lose everything,” he says. “I think that’s how you prevent it: by thinking you could lose everything. Every time, I feel like, ‘Are we going to lose momentum? Are we going to lose the audience?’ Because fashion is fleeting, ultimately. We love brands for a certain period of time. I’m quite surprised that we still have the support. Maybe I’ve gotten better with age.”
Fashion Profiles to follow this week
Jonathan Anderson, creative director of J.W.Anderson and Loewe
Eugénie Trochu, head of editorial content at Vogue France, to follow Paris Fashion Week and more
Your Fashion Jobs Date 🔍
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If you want to receive the latest fashion jobs and internships every week straight to your inbox and more content from us to learn more about the fashion industry, upgrade to our paid newsletter for just 1,97€/week to receive for the full experience.
That’s all for this week.
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Giada Graziano, Inside Fashion Editor in Chief and Glam Observer Founder
Margarita Skacenko, Fashion Editorial Assistant
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