What is Phoebe Philo known for, Burberry's new logo + how to become a fashion editor
plus the updated list of fashion jobs and internships
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Yesterday, the fashion industry received breaking news that Phoebe Philo will release the first collection of her signature label in September 2023. Known for her outstanding creative direction of Chloé and Céline, the designer is expected to create incredible collections again - now with her eponymous brand. Let’s get to know Phoebe Philo’s career and her contribution to the industry a little better.
Phoebe Philo was born in 1973 in Paris to British parents and studied at Central Saint Martins in London. Her first job in fashion was as Stella McCartney’s assistant at Chloé in 1997, whom she replaced as creative director in 2001. Since then, Phoebe Philo has transformed Chloé into one of the most-wanted luxury brands. Vogue France even defined Chloé by Phoebe Philo as “a Chanel of new times”.
Her effortlessly feminine collections with a vintage Chloé twist from the 70s made it one of the hottest brands. Under her leadership, the brand’s sales increased by 40% year-over-year, and the company’s estimated wholesale value has grown to $300 million.
In 2002, she launched the handbag line with a series of iconic bags, among which there is the Bracelet Bag and the Paddington bag. The latter was released in 2005 and became the most wanted accessory in the history of the fashion business, according to Vogue, to such an extent that all 8,000 samples produced that same year sold out before reaching stores and waiting lists are closed!
To the surprise of everyone, the designer stepped back from her role at Chloé in 2006, explaining she wanted to focus on her family.
However, her absence in the fashion industry was not so long. In 2008, the luxury group LVMH invited her to take the creative direction of Céline, where she stayed until 2018. Her time at the French fashion house was also a huge success.
Back in the day, she shared her vision of the brand like "I want to create clothes, shoes, bags, and accessories that are relevant to right now — modern, exciting designs that women will desire and appreciate”. She created a 2.0 Céline, giving the brand a minimalistic “less is more” aesthetic, with a focus on sustainability.
Philo’s first collection for Céline debuted in 2009 with 3 bag lines - the Cabas, the Luggage, and the Classic.
She created the #uglyshoes trend with the Spring/Summer 2013 collection of fur heels and lined sandals.
Phoebe Philo is also famous for portraying unconventional faces for Céline’s campaigns, like the 2015 Spring/Summer campaign with the then 82-year-old Joan Didion - a bold move that later inspired other designers to do the same.
Philo’s Céline became a symbol of women's empowerment and emancipation and made women fall in love with the brand. She called them the “Philophiles” who, according to her own words she shared in an interview with The New York Times interview, are "different women but with the same love for clothes that suggest novelty while being made to last, well beyond the fast pace of clothing trends",
Phoebe Philo’s talent made her win multiple awards and honors. In 2013, the designer received an OBE in Queen Elizabeth’s New Year's Honours list. In 2005 and 2010, she won the British Designer of the Year award at the British Fashion Awards, followed by the International Award at the CFDA Fashion Awards in 2011.
She also trained talented designers including Daniel Lee, who worked under Philo at Céline, as well as Peter Do, Rok Hwang, and Ilaria Iccardi.
Bernard Arnault, chairman, and chief executive officer of LVMH, has described Philo as “one of the most talented designers of our time”.
We are curious to discover Phoebe Philo’s label in September. What do you think?
What's happening in the industry this week?💚
Burberry reveals a new logo
Burberry recently revealed a new logo and the first glimpse into the new creative direction under Daniel Lee. Take a look at this video to learn more.
Louis Vuitton reinterprets the LV Trainer sneaker
Louis Vuitton launched a new series of artistic collaborations around its iconic LV Trainer sneaker, which was originally designed by the late Virgil Abloh in 2019. For this new project, the brand collaborated with artists Lady Pink, Lee Quiñones, and Rammellzee to each reinterpret the sneaker - an idea that was initiated by Virgil Abloh in 2021 in partnership with Sky Gellatly.
For the project, Gellatly was also asked to curate a dedicated exhibition showcasing the artists’ original hand-painted sneaker adaptations, and multimedia installations retracing their creative process and a selection of their work. The exhibition will open during Milan Fashion Week at Louis Vuitton’s new flagship, running Feb.24 through March 16.
Jimmy Choo collaborates with Sailor Moon
The capsule collection offers a range of footwear and accessories themed around the key characters in the popular anime series. It includes a limited-edition boot with Swarovski crystal embellishments, a clutch with a special version encrusted with crystals, and limited to only 25 globally, among other bags and leather accessories.
Re/Done launches men’s
The Los-Angeles based label that will be celebrating its 10th birthday next year, co-founded by Jamie Mazur and Sean Barron, is expanding into men’s. Known for reconstructing old Levi’s pieces, Re/Done will continue the tradition of upcycling and recycling fabrics, now in the men’s category that includes knitwear using upcycled Hanes T-shirts, sweatshirts; shirting made from vintage Japanese textiles, as well as straight, slim and loose denim styles inspired by the ‘50s, ‘60s, and ‘90s.
Alexander Wang returned to New York Fashion Week
The designer staged Feb.8 its first show in New York since 2019 when he was accused of sexual misconduct in 2020. The show was called “Cupid’s Door” and presented Fall 2023 ready-to-wear collection around the theme of a celebration of romance.
Moncler Genius is staging a big exhibition in London
Moncler Genius is planning to stage “The Art of Genius 2023” show at Olympia London on Feb.20, in the middle of London Fashion Week. With the goal to “tap into new communities, creators and disruptors from the world of art, design, entertainment, sport, fashion and culture”, according to Moncler’s chairman and chief executive officer Remo Ruffini, the exhibition will present immersive experiences and live performance, with Alicia Keys, Pharrell Williams, and Adidas Originals among guests.
Stella McCartney receives the CBE award from King Charles III
The British designer has been granted a Commander of the Order of the British Empire (CBE) by King Charles III this Tuesday, Feb.7, for her services to fashion and sustainability. This is the second award Stella McCartney receives from the royal family, as in 2013 she was granted an Order of the British Empire award (OBE) from Queen Elizabeth II.
Hermès won a court battle against Mason Rothschild over “MetaBirkins” NFT
Hermès won the trademark infringement lawsuit that it filed against Mason Rothschild back in November 2021 over its release of the “MetaBirkins” NFTS (non-fungible tokens) that are digital versions of the infamous Birkin Bag.
Fashion Career Tip of the Week
Want to become a fashion editor, but don't have a clue which skills are required for this job besides writing?
If being a fashion editor sounds like a dream role, and you are just at the beginning of your career - an intern, a student, a freelance -, or with some experience already, we want to share with you everything about the role of a fashion editor and the top skills you need for this job.
Read our latest article “How to become a fashion editor” here to learn about:
Who is a fashion editor and what are their responsibilities
How to launch your career to work your way up toward the role of a fashion editor
10 skills every fashion editor should master
Get ready to apply for an internship at your favorite magazine and move your way up to the role of a fashion editor 🙌🏻 Click here to read how to become a fashion editor.
Nice things 💖
Chiara Ferragni wore a custom Dior gown at Sanremo with a strong message about freedom for women ✨ Watch the video here.
What to listen to this week 🎙️
The Glam Observer Podcast has returned with a new season and the first episode is all about the history of fashion week(s) to celebrate the beginning of fashion month that has just kickstarted with NYFW!
In the new podcast episode, I talked about:
The first fashion show
The history of New York, Milan, Paris, and London Fashion Week
How fashion shows have evolved
And much more!
You can listen to it on Apple Podcasts and Spotify.
Fashion Profiles to follow this week
Sandra Choi creative director at Jimmy Choo
NYFW the official account of New York Fashion Week that began today
Your Fashion Jobs Date 🔍
NEW YORK
Internships
Cartier High Jewelry Summer Internship 2023
Intern, Brand Development - Steve Madden
Production Intern - G-III Apparel Group
CRM Intern, Summer Internship Program - Chloé
Entry-level jobs
Content Creator - OLIVER CHARLES
Sales & Merchandising Assistant - Dreamwear
Designer - Men's Accessories - J.Crew
GUCCI Merchandising and Inventory Planning Assistant - Outlets (Temporary)
LONDON
Merchandising Intern - TFG Brands London
Fashion Stylist - Salt Boutique Ltd
Merchandising Admin Assistant- YOOX NET-A-PORTER
Design Assistant - Footwear & Accessories (12 Month FTC) - Ted Baker
Digital Analyst (Insights & Analytics) - MATCHESFASHION
Online Visual Merchandising Executive - Womenswear - MATCHESFASHION
Social Media & Influencers Assistant - DeMellier
Product Development Assistant (Menswear) - Burberry
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Merchandiser, Men’s RTW & Silk Accessories.
MILAN
Internships
Product Training Internship - Loro Piana
Social Media Editor Intern - DOLCE&GABBANA
Digital Merchandising Internship - Moncler
[Internship] E-commerce Catalogue specialist - Marni
BOTTEGA VENETA Jewelry Design Intern
Entry-level jobs
In Store Visual Merchandiser - Zegna
WW Commercial Planning & Operations Coordinator - Stella McCartney
Personal Assistant - Wholesale Directors - New Guards Group
Visual Merchandiser In-Store - Gucci
PARIS
Internships
Stage Assistant éditorial CNX H/F - Condé Nast France
Stage Graphiste print/digital AD Magazine H/F - Condé Nast France
Stage Assistant Achat et Développement des Matières - Jean Paul GAULTIER
Junior Graphic Designer (Internship) - Maison Margiela
CRÉATEUR.RICE DE CONTENU DIGITAL SOCIAL MEDIA - STAGE - Jedid
Stagiaire Assistant(e) Presse (H/F) - Maison Alaïa
Showroom & Back Office Assistant - Loro Piana
Stage - Assistant.e Production Prêt à Porter Flou (H/F) - Juillet 2023 - CELINE
DIOR Assistant Chargé de Coordination Accessoires Femme F/H - Stage
Entry-level jobs
Product Development Coordinator (part-time) - Ganni A/S
Press Assistant - The Frankie Shop
That’s all for this week.
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Giada Graziano, Inside Fashion Editor in Chief and Glam Observer Founder
Margarita Skacenko, Fashion Editorial Assistant
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