Vogue's Exhibition, Louis Vuitton Café, the future of luxury and 🎄🎄🎄fashion campaigns
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What a week it’s been — and there’s still 2.5 days to go!
It all kicked off strong with Marc Jacobs’ December cover for Vogue America, where he served as guest editor. I must say, asking Marc was one of Anna Wintour’s best decisions in recent memory. The cover, featuring Kaia Gerber, was stunning, though I can't help but think that Marc’s original idea to have Anna herself on the cover would have been iconic!
This week was also packed with reports and industry events. From the annual State of Fashion report by BOF to their Voices conference, and the Altagamma Osservatorio in Milan that I attended in person, where I had the chance to hear from Andrea Guerra CEO of Prada Group, Laura Burdese Deputy CEO of Bulgari, Federica Levato Claudia D'Arpizio from Bain & Company, Alfonso Dolce CEO of Dolce & Gabbana and others on the future of luxury.
It’s been a week of learning for me—listening to industry leaders and soaking in valuable insights. hat a blessing to have the internet and connect with what Simon Jacuqneym and Alessandro Michele were saying in London while on my communte to the Milan conference? As a fashion nerd, I thrive on constant learning. I guess that’s part of the reason I am fashion educator—because I’m always a student myself, no matter how long I’ve been in the industry.
Lesson of the week: Never stop learning, regardless of where you are in your career.
I started this Friday morning catching up on missed news primary to write this newsletter and report them to you but it’s in general a practice that I like to add to my morning routine. Starting the day by reading the latest updates was a great way to spark new ideas. Highly recommend this practice, whether you’re a student or a CEO.
I’m making this intro a bit longer than usual, so let’s dive in!
We have a lot to cover, but to kick things off, I thought it would be interesting to dive into the luxury fashion trends for 2025, based on insights from the conference I attended. Shall we?
What Lies Ahead for the Luxury Fashion Industry?
1. Shifting from Products to Experiences
The luxury sector is increasingly turning to experiential offerings—restaurants, travel—as these outpaced traditional luxury good sales.
2.The Rise of Content over Transactions in E-commerce
Online luxury is holding strong, growing alongside traditional monobrand retail. However, consumers are spending less time on websites, pushing brands to invest in quality content that goes beyond straightforward e-commerce transactions.
3.Polarized Luxury Categories
Certain categories are excelling while others face challenges. Jewelry and beauty, for instance, have remained resilient. Jewelry brands haven’t raised prices drastically, maintaining consumer loyalty. Meanwhile, categories like shoes are struggling due to price hikes, they are indeed no longer an entry price.
4. Impact of price increases
Over 50 million consumers have exited the luxury market due to rising prices and a perception that brands are less exclusive. The lack of highly personalized experiences has diluted the luxury experience for even the most loyal clients. Brands must rethink what justifies a premium price—whether it’s craftsmanship, creativity, or storytelling—and deliver an experience that aligns with these elements.
5.The Resurgence of Second-Hand Luxury
The second-hand market continues to grow, challenging brands to win back consumers who can access similar items at a significant discount. For example, high-end items from current collections can sometimes be found at 40-50% off at resellers like The RealReal in SoHo. This dynamic poses a question to luxury brands: how to keep their primary market attractive enough to retain loyal consumers without diluting exclusivity.
6.Competing Beyond Traditional Luxury Boundaries
Luxury brands now face competition also from fast fashion brands like Zara and sportswear giants like Nike. Furthermore, second-hand marketplaces and up-and-coming American brands are claiming market share by offering more accessible luxury alternatives.
7.Brand-Creative Balance
As Prada’s CEO, Andrea Guerra, highlighted, lowering prices isn’t the solution. He underlined the importance of finding a balance between brand identity and creativity.
What happened in the industry this week? 💚
Louis Vuitton Opens New Café on Fifth Avenue
Louis Vuitton debuted its first U.S. café in New York City, offering a sophisticated, library-inspired ambiance and a menu curated by top chefs Christophe Bellanca and Mary George. This café is a temporary feature while Vuitton renovates its flagship store, blending luxury retail and lifestyle experiences.
Peter Do Departs Helmut Lang
Peter Do has stepped down as creative director of Helmut Lang after only a year in the role. His tenure brought a fresh perspective to the brand’s minimalist aesthetic, but no successor has been named yet, leaving the brand at a transitional point.
Phillip Lim Steps Down from 3.1 Phillip Lim
After nearly two decades, Phillip Lim has announced his departure as creative director of the brand he co-founded. Known for redefining contemporary American fashion, Lim is leaving to explore new ventures. A successor has yet to be appointed.
Capri Holdings Reports 9.6% Revenue Decline
Capri Holdings, which owns Michael Kors, Versace, and Jimmy Choo, experienced a 9.6% revenue drop in Q2 2025. The decline stems from weakening North American demand and increased inventory challenges, posing hurdles for the luxury group’s strategy.
Tariffs on Chinese Imports Might Affect The Fashion Industry
The proposed tariffs on Chinese imports, which could significantly impact the fashion industry, were introduced during Trump's presidency but have not been implemented yet. These tariffs would affect a wide range of fashion products, including clothing and accessories. If enacted, they could drive up costs for brands that rely on Chinese manufacturing.
Diesel and Damiano David Launch Capsule Collection
Diesel has teamed up with Damiano David, frontman of the Italian rock band Måneskin, to release a new capsule collection. Inspired by David’s signature rock style, the collection offers edgy pieces that blend Diesel’s bold aesthetic with David’s distinctive flair. Featuring leather jackets, distressed denim, and graphic tees, the collection captures a rebellious spirit. Launched today, the capsule collection will be available at select Diesel stores and online, appealing to fans of both Diesel’s fearless fashion and David’s rock-inspired style
Applications are now open for the 2025 LVMH Prize
The prestigious LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers invites applications from designers aged 18 to 40 who have created at least two collections of womenswear, menswear, or genderless ready-to-wear. The winner will receive a €400,000 grant along with a personalized mentorship program. Applications are open until Jan 12th. The competition also includes the Karl Lagerfeld Prize and the Savoir-Faire Prize, each offering a €200,000 endowment and one year of mentorship. In addition, LVMH offers a unique prize for recent fashion school graduates, awarding three winners a one-year contract in the creative studios of LVMH’s leading houses, a €10,000 allocation, and support for relocation to Paris. Applications for the graduate prize remain open until March 30, 2025. If you are interested in any of the prizes, you can apply at lvmhprize.com.
Glenn Martens to Collaborate with H&M on Upcoming Collection
H&M has announced an exciting collaboration with Glenn Martens, the creative director of Y/Project and Diesel, during a surprise reveal at the BoF VOICES stage. The partnership will result in an exclusive collection that blends Martens' signature deconstructed and avant-garde style with H&M’s accessible, fashion-forward approach. Known for his bold, innovative designs, Martens is expected to bring a fresh perspective to the collection, offering unique, statement pieces that combine high-end fashion with everyday wear. Set to launch in spring 2025, the collection will also emphasize H&M’s commitment to sustainability and inclusivity. This collaboration adds to H&M’s legacy of high-profile partnerships, having previously worked with designers such as Balmain, Kenzo, and Simone Rocha.
Fashion Career Tip
Fashion Job Search Myths that might be preventing you from getting the role of your dreams
Ever dreamt of working in fashion but felt a bit discouraged? You’re not alone! There are so many myths about breaking into the fashion industry that might be making things feel tougher than they need to be. This week, I’m tackling some of the biggest ones—and I think you'll be surprised by the truth behind them! Click here to read.
Nice Things 💖
Brands released their holiday campaigns. Fashion + Christmas is there anything better?
What to watch this week 📺
Go behind the scenes of the making of this iconic Vogue cover edited by the one and only Marc Jacobs.
What to read this week
I am waiting to receive this new book today: Prada Una storia di Famiglia, by Ebhardt, Tommaso. It’s a new book about the Prada family and business it’s, available in Italian only at the moment. I’ll share as usual my learnings with you. Very excited to read.
What to visit this week
The Vogue: Inventing the Runway exhibition is now open at Lightroom in King's Cross, London, and I couldn’t be more excited about this exhibition.
It offers a unique exploration of the evolution of fashion shows and their evolution. The exhibition combines rare fashion archives from top designers and houses, including Chanel, Alexander McQueen, and Louis Vuitton, with cutting-edge technology that immerses audiences in the magic of runway events. As the teacher of the Fashion Show production + Working Backstage Masterclass I cannot wait to visit this exhibition, tickets are on sale until April 2025. Shall we organize a meet and greet and go there together? let me know in the comments!
Fashion Profiles to follow this week
Marina Raphael Elie Saab’s new Artistic and Design Director of Handbags
Paolo Roversi Discover the work of the famous fashion photographer
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That’s all for this week!
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Giada Graziano, Inside Fashion Editor in Chief and Glam Observer Founder
Margarita Skacenko, Fashion Editor & Content Manager
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Hi! I hope you're having a great day!
I enjoyed this lovely newsletter about the fashion world. I'm really curious to hear your thoughts on the Ellie Saab fashion show! Also, I’d love to plan a meetup for the Vogue Lightroom show in London. Let me know what you think! 😊