Vogue World Paris, Simone Rocha's new book, entry-level fashion jobs, the history of famous fashion designers
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PFW & MFW: 8 shows we loved
Today, we are happy to continue our brief review of Fall 2024 collections.
Here is what happened at Milan Fashion Week, which ran between February 20 and 26.
Walter Chiapponi presented his first collection as creative director of Blumarine. His Fall 2024 marked a return to the brand’s core romantic and feminine aesthetics. He shared his vision in a statement to WWD: “I wanted to smell what has happened in these years and I wanted to erase what happened in the nearer years, in the sense that I am not a person who understands Y2K culture [Blumarine has indeed become synonymous with the early 2000s aesthetic under former creative director Nicola Brognano] and Mrs. Anna [Molinari, Blumarine’s cofounder with whom he worked between 2001 and 2005] wouldn’t understand it, either. She’s a woman who never touched vulgarity. She was a frivolous woman, with a lot of romanticism and that’s all she has taught me when I worked for her more than 20 years ago.” Chiapponi also introduced menswear with 10 looks, with the message: “I want to create a globality and make this brand to return to be as relevant as it was.”
Sabato de Sarno presented his third collection for Gucci, following the first women’s RTW last September and the Men’s Fall 2024 collection in January. The Fall 2024 collection, though much appreciated, sparked questions among fashion critics about where the pants are because the looks featured ‘only’ long dresses and skirts, micro shorts, and jackets paired with high boots. Sabato de Sarno reassured that pants will be sold in stores.
Matthieu Blazy’s Fall 2024 collection for Bottega Veneta was a celebration of everyday clothing. “The initial idea was to reduce [the collection] to almost the function [of clothes]—only reduce not to the minimum, but to a maximum. I was interested in making a monument out of the everyday,” he said backstage to the press. Vogue argued in its review of the show that “Though these were clothes to wear to the office, or out to dinner, or late at night when you walk your dog, thanks to their unique volumes, there was nothing workaday about them.” The magazine thus raised an interesting question of, to what extent can clothes be considered “everyday” without looking banal and yet wearable. What do you think?
Dolce&Gabbana’s Fall 2024 show chose to focus on the tuxedo, revisiting one of their eponymous house’s signature pieces. “It’s by perfecting essential pieces that we have created our personal and recognizable style,” the press notes stated.
Finally, Versace’s Fall 2024 runway, besides storming social media for the (another) iconic encounter between Anna Wintour and Anne Hathaway that brought some Devil Wears Prada Vibes, also presented a fantastic collection by Donatella Versace. “A collection of considered wildness, where tailoring is disrupted, print deconstructed, and Atelier Versace fabrics shredded and meticulously hand-woven into new materials,” as the brand described it.
After Milan, Fashion Week traveled to Paris where shows are taking place between February 26 and March 5. These are our 3 favorite shows so far.
Chloé’s Fall 2024 show was the first under the house’s new creative director Chemena Kamali, who previously worked at Chloé under Phoebe Philo and Clare Waight Keller. The collection had many references to the 1970s days and previous creative directors, including Karl Lagerfeld. We love the new Chloé, Chemena was able to mantain the codes of the house with the boho style making it modern, fresh and new! How about you?
Saint Laurent’s shows are always among our favorites, and the latest Fall 2024 collection brought the excitement back. Anthony Vaccarello created a nearly entire sheer collection. A nod to the founder’s transparent “La Cigaline” blouse and dress, which Yves Saint Laurent introduced in 1968. The Yves Saint Laurent Museum in Paris is currently hosting the “Transparencies” exhibition dedicated to the sheer fabric.
Another collection of everyday staples was Daniel Roseberry’s fall 2024 collection for Schiaparelli. “Our ready-to-wear, [are] fully formed, hyper-exclusive collections for the daily lives of our clientele. These collections are complete wardrobes of everyday staples — but with the volume turned up to Schiaparelli settings,” he said. According to Vogue, there were almost no celebrities at the show. “It’s more about adding a layer of legitimacy to the way people think about the house,” Roseberry explained. “So that when you think of Schiaparelli you don’t just think of celebrities, you don’t just think of couture. You also think of everyday pieces that you could be wearing right now.” Personally, we loved the “tie” on the look below.
What are your highlights from MFW & PFW?
What happened in the industry this week? 💚
Vogue World is coming to Paris
Following the first edition in New York in September 2022, and the second in London last September, Vogue World is now coming to Paris on June 23. The Olympics-themed event will take place on Place Vendôme and will open the Haute Couture Week that will run on June 24- 27. The feature fashion content will be overseen by Carine Roitfeld, Ibrahim Kamara, and fashion historian Alexandre Samson and will feature looks from each decade since 1924, the last time the Olympics took place in Paris.
Louis Vuitton goes to Barcelona
The French luxury brand picked Barcelona as its next venue for the Cruise 2025 show on May 23. The event will kick off a series of collaborations, including Louis Vuitton 37th America’s Cup, scheduled for Aug. 22 to Oct. 27 in Barcelona, as well as an exhibition, cultural activations, and educational programs.
Margaret Zhang is leaving Vogue China
The editor-in-chief of Vogue China will be leaving the publication at the end of March. Her successor has not been named yet.
Appointed in February 2021, Margaret Zhang became the youngest Vogue editor globally, and the first influencer to be named a top editor at any edition of Vogue, according to The Business of Fashion.
Simone Rocha is launching a book
Rizzoli is publishing a book on Simone Rocha’s career, making it the first-ever comprehensive book about the Irish fashion designer. Titled “Simone Rocha”, the new book is billed as a “long, pensive gaze into Rocha’s subversive world, one heavily inspired by the work of Louise Bourgeois.” It will be released in September 2024.
Maison Margiela couture spring 2024 special installation
John Galliano’s highly acclaimed spring 2024 Artisanal couture collection for Maison Margiela will host a “special installation” of the collection as a “re-see” opportunity for industry professionals who didn’t attend the show to discover the collection. Visits at Maison Margiela’s Paris headquarters will take place between March 1 and 7, and are by invitation and appointment only.
Paul Smith’s Foundation launches a mentoring program
The English designer’s Foundation is working with the London mayor’s office on a three-year project dedicated to supporting emerging design talent, precisely 3 cohorts of 6 designers for 12 months. The Fashion Residency at Studio Smithfield will offer 5,000 square feet of temporary studio space and a wide-ranging mentoring program. According to WWD, “The foundation said the aim is for designers to leave the program with complete business plans, portfolios, cashflow projections, communications and social media strategies, as well as usable template agreements in IP, employment, partnership and licensing.”
If you are interested in participating, the application process opens this week and closes on April 14.
France proposes to charge €5 on every fast-fashion purchase
A recent article from France24 reported that a young lawmaker from the conservative Les Républicains party has proposed charging an extra €5 on every fast-fashion purchase “in the name of the environment and the French textile industry”. The bill has been fiercely critisized because some see it as unfair, saying it will only serve to punish the poor, the article states. The bill is expected to be debated in the lower house of parliament in the next few months. Read the full article here.
What’s new in beauty 💄
Huda Kattan is back at Huda Beauty
Huda Kattan returned as CEO of her eponymous beauty company, after exiting in 2020. “It has been one of the biggest regrets of my life because I didn’t listen to myself. I felt in the moment that it was wrong, but I felt that I didn’t know better,” she said to the press. Good to have you back!
Fashion Career Tips
Are you looking for entry-level jobs in fashion?
I have been mentoring many fashion enthusiasts for the past years helping them break into fashion and many come to me saying they are seeking entry-level jobs to kickstart their career in fashion.
But I have to make an important premise here. Most entry-level jobs in fashion require previous experience aka internships.
If you already completed at least one fashion internship, an entry-level job is your next step in the industry.
In our latest article “Entry-Level Jobs in Fashion and Where to Find Them”, we explain:
The difference between fashion internships and entry-level jobs
6 popular entry-level jobs in fashion
Where to find entry-level fashion jobs at fashion/luxury brands and magazines
And how to apply for them
Read the article here.
Nice Things 💖
Miranda Priestly and Andy Sachs (Anna Wintour and Anne Hathaway IRL) catching up at Versace’s Fall 2024 show in Milan.
Chemena Kamali with her son at her Chloé Fall 2024 finale🥹
Vogue Arabia celebrates its 7th anniversary with 7 cover stars for the March 2024 issue. Stunning!
What to read this week 📚
As you are watching runways of the different fashion brands, we invite you to dive into the history of their founders. In our recent article, we cover some of the most iconic pieces that were introduced by 12 famous fashion designers from the late 19th century to the 1970s. You can read it here.
Fashion Profiles to follow this week
Chemena Kamali Follow her incredible work at Chloé
Margaret Zhang Follow her next fashion projects after leaving Vogue China
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Giada Graziano, Inside Fashion Editor in Chief and Glam Observer Founder
Margarita Skacenko, Fashion Editorial Assistant
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