PFW highlights, Dior J'Adore exhibition, Loewe's history + how to work in fashion law
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Happy Friday everyone!
Yesterday morning, I was at the IULM University in Milan, as a guest lecturer of the fashion communication course to talk about how I started Glam Observer, share career advice for entering the world of fashion with the 80 students of the course, and talk about how communication and marketing are changing in fashion.
Through my courses (you can check them out here or register for a free masterclass here), I teach thousands of students online, so it was a great feeling to be able to sit at the desk in front of an in-person class.
The last time I met students from my courses in person was last December when I brought some students with me to the Fashion Awards in London. This reminded me of when I organized the various fashion panels in Milan and London, which I miss. Should we organize more? Milan, London or Paris? Let me know in the comments.
Paris Fashion Week is here!
Paris is the last destination of fashion week, which is slowly coming to an end (but hey, there are still many shows to watch until October 3!). It is home to iconic luxury houses including Saint Laurent, Dior, Chanel, Schiaparelli…so PFW is a highly anticipated event in the fashion month calendar. Let’s see what happened so far.
I watched Loewe’s show LIVE this morning, and I liked it a lot. Creative director Jonathan Anderson once again demonstrated his ability to both respect the house’s traditions and craftsmanship and give the designs an innovative and modern look.
I also personally liked Schiaparelli, because Daniel Roseberry's new ready-to-wear collection is a mix of everyday wear and couture, which looked spectacular. I particularly loved this look.
Despite the fact that Balmain’s collection of 50 looks was stolen by carjackers on the way from Charles de Gaulle airport, just before PFW, creative director Olivier Rousteing and his team were able to hastily remake 70% of it, according to Vogue. Like last season, Rousteing paid homage to the founder Pierre Balmain by pulling couture pieces and sketches from the house's archives to reference. He was a big fan of roses, which became Spring 2024's preeminent motif.
Saint Laurent staged a stunning runway at the Eiffel Tower. Anthony Vaccarello’s collection paid tribute to the House’s 70-year heritage by making a return to simplicity and was inspired by era-defining female pilots and aviators.
Gabriela Hearst staged the last fashion show for Chloé. To celebrate her South African roots, the designer invited members of Brazil's legendary Mangueira samba school to the show. “I mean, I am obsessed with this collection. It is my favorite collection I have ever done anywhere,” she said to Vogue backstage before the show.
Tomorrow, September 30, Sarah Burton will present her last collection for Alexander McQueen. She carried the founder’s legacy since he passed away in 2010, so don’t miss her last chapter as creative director in the history of AMQ.
Which was your favorite show from PFW so far?
What's happening in the industry this week?💚
Louis Vuitton joined Discord
With the goal to extend its presence in the digital sphere, Louis Vuitton announced its presence on Discord this week. The brand shared with the press that “This presence opens up new horizons for the Maison in the realm of social media,” adding that the goal is to “forge an increasingly strong connection between Louis Vuitton and its online communities, while also offering privileged visibility to the latest creations and behind-the-scenes insights.”
Sporty&Rich launched a collab with a hotel in Paris
Lifestyle label Sporty & Rich and the legendary Le Bristol hotel in Paris on a capsule collection, which was released on September 27. Aimed at the hotel’s chic clientele, the co-branded capsule includes pajamas and loungewear, velour tracksuits, cashmere sweatpants, crew-neck sweater sets, totes, and baseball caps. The collection is available at Le Bristol’s boutique, which transformed into a Sporty & Rich pop-up, and online as of September 27.
The host of the 2023 CFDA Fashion Awards revealed
It was announced that Sarah Jessica Parker will be the one to host the 2023 CFDA Fashion Awards, presented by Amazon Fashion. The ceremony will take place at the American Museum of Natural History on November 6.
The actress known for her role as Carrie Bradshaw in “Sex and the City” and the series reboot “And Just Like That”, is also a businesswoman and designer. She has her own footwear label SJP Collection, founded in 2014, and a beauty business, SJP Beauty.
Valentino Garavani to receive the Outstanding Achievement Award
The Italian designer will be the latest recipient of the prize at The Fashion Awards on December 4 in London, organized by the British Fashion Council as a fundraiser for students and emerging designers. BFC explained this choice to WWD by saying that Valentino Garavani’s “extraordinary designs, dedication to craftsmanship, ubiquitous branding, and business acumen have left an indelible mark on the fashion world and cemented him as a legend of haute couture”.
Dior opened an exhibition dedicated to J’adore fragrance
Opened to the public on Wednesday at the École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts in Paris, the “Dior J’Adore!” exhibition is centered around the iconic brand’s J’Adore perfume, first launched in 1999, and fashion looks that explore the relationship of Dior through the prism of J’Adore. It will run through October 8 and will be open daily from 10 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. CET.
Pharell Williams released a book about jewelry
The famous musician and creative director of menswear at Louis Vuitton released on Tuesday a book about his custom-made jewelry collection of more than 100 pieces. Titled “Pharrell: Carbon, Pressure & Time: A Book of Jewels,” the new book delves into the artist’s self-proclaimed “costly habit” and explores the significance of jewelry and its place in his life. It also includes conversations with Kenzo’s creative director, NIGO, alongside AMBUSH‘s Yoon Ahn and Tiffany & Co.‘s executive vice president, Alexandre Arnault, and jewelers Lorraine Schwartz and Jacob Arabo.
What’s new in beauty💄
Victoria Beckham launched a debut fragrance collection
For the first time, the fashion designer is launching 3 fragrances today - Portofino ’97, Suite 302, and San Ysidro Drive -, created by perfumer Jérôme Epinette. These perfumes are said to be inspired by personal moments from the designer’s past, and especially her alone time with her husband David Beckham, according to WWD. They will be distributed through direct-to-consumer (without a licensee) and partnerships with Bergdorf Goodman, Violet Grey, Selfridges, Neiman Marcus, and La Samaritaine.
Fashion Career Tip of the Week
Are you studying or graduated in law and want to break into the fashion industry?
It’s common to think of fashion jobs as those that deal with clothes all the time. From the outside, we see runway shows and beautiful pictures in magazines, but on the inside, it’s a far less glamorous fashion world than it seems.
The industry doesn’t rely only on creative roles to run successfully. Working in the legal department of a fashion brand means being one of those professionals who work behind the scenes, so not under the spotlight as designers, editors, or stylists.
So if you are studying or recently graduated in law and think there are no opportunities in the fashion world for you, it’s not like that, and working as a fashion lawyer might be the perfect career for you!
We explain all about the role of the fashion lawyer in our latest article. You will learn:
What fashion lawyers do
What skills they need
And how to work in fashion with your degree in law
Read the article here.
Nice things 💖
Angelina Jolie is wearing her Atelier Jolie gown on the digital cover of Vogue’s November issue.
Jennifer Aniston on the cover of CR Fashion Book 23, FW 2023/2024.
What to watch this week 📺
The long-awaited Victoria’s Secret part-documentary, part-runway show, “The Tour’23” was released on September 26 on Amazon Prime.
This is a brand new format of the VS show since the last one was canceled in 2019, featuring a diverse cast and collections designed by global creatives from Bogota, Lagos, London, and Tokyo, so this can be an interesting what-to-watch during the weekend.
What to read this week 📚
How much do you know about the history of Loewe?
If you watched the recent Loewe SS24 fashion show in Paris and want to learn more about the Spanish luxury house, you are just in time because we wrote about the history and evolution of Loewe on Glam Observer. Read the latest article here.
Is Italy going through a tailoring crisis, and could this tradition be extinct soon? This is an issue that GQ magazine explores in a recent interesting piece. You can read it here.
Fashion Profiles to follow this week
PFW to not miss the last Paris Fashion Week shows
Gabriela Hearst to follow her next fashion projects.
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That’s all for this week.
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Giada Graziano, Inside Fashion Editor in Chief and Glam Observer Founder
Margarita Skacenko, Fashion Editorial Assistant
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