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LFW & MFW: 5 shows we loved
The Fall 2024 Fashion Week season is at its peak. From February 16 to 20, London Fashion Week celebrated its 40th anniversary with 44 runways and 15 presentations.
These are our 3 biggest takeaways from LFW.
The third collection by Daniel Lee for Burberry staged at the famous Victoria Park, was a love letter to London and the British weather, with a focus on outerwear, which is arguably the brand’s most iconic product category. A big surprise of the show was Maya Wigram, Phoebe Philo’s daughter, who closed the show.
We also loved Simone Rocha’s Fall 2024 show, held at St. Bartholomew’s Church. Rocha considers the three collections she created in the past year - two for her eponymous brand, and one as a guest designer for Jean Paul Gaultier’s recent Couture Spring 2024 show in January - to be a "trilogy." Her Spring 2024 show was “the dress rehearsal”, the JPG Couture collection was “the procession”, and the latest Fall 2024 runway was “the wake”, inspired by Queen Victoria.
Finally, Richard Quinn staged a predominantly black and white parade of eveningwear that opened the show, floral catsuits and gowns in the middle, and 12 bridal looks at the end. Fashion critics noted that Quinn’s Fall 2024 collection was a clear continuation of designs seen in Spring 2024 last September. The opulent salon at the Andaz London Hotel was decorated with 900 square meters of the designer’s signature fabric.
Moving to Milan Fashion Week, currently running between Feb 20 and 26, famous editors, buyers, celebrities, and influencers traveled to the Italian fashion capital (and so did many fashion enthusiasts virtually) to discover the new collections the Italian fashion houses have to offer. Among many beautiful collections that have been presented so far, these are the two you need to remember.
In recent years, Diesel has arguably become the king of fashion shows open to the public, but the brand slightly changed the format this year with something never seen before. Instead of inviting fashion industry outsiders to the physical show, (insiders could still attend it by invitation only) the participants could view the show via Zoom, and their screens were projected on 6 giant 100-cell Zoom call screens that were placed extremely close to the IRL audience. Creative director Glenn Martens explained to Vogue, “We are always trying to be alternative in the industry. We belong in Fashion Week, but we are not a classic luxury brand; we are all about lifestyles. And we are about our communities and our friends and our families—so let’s try and bring them in.”
Moschino’s Fall 2024 show was highly awaited because of the recent appointment of the new creative director Adrian Appiolaza, who replaced the late Davide Renne, passed away last November. He only had 3 weeks and 2 days to create the collection. It marked a clear departure from the loudly colorful universe of Jeremy Scott, who led the label for nearly 10 years before departing last March. Appiolaza paid homage to the founder Franco Moschino by revisiting some of his signature pieces, such as the cloud print, the smiley face, and slogan and trompe l’oeil pieces, among others.
And what are your highlights from LFW and MFW so far?
What happened in the industry this week? 💚
Balenciaga’s next show will travel to Shanghai
Creative director Demna Gvasalia will unveil Balenciaga’s Spring 2025 women’s and men’s collections in Shanghai on May 30. This will be the designer’s first show in China, (Balenciaga staged shows in China in 2013 and 2014, but under previous creative directors) where the brand has more stores than any other country.
Jacquemus x Nike
Simon Porte Jacquemus and Nike created a “Swoosh” bag, shaped like Nike’s logo, which will be released on Feb.26. This is the latest collaboration of their ongoing partnership; it started in 2022, debuting on the designer brand's Fall 2022 show in France, and continued a few months later with the release of J Force 1 sneakers, and Air Max 1 ’86, released last month.
Lucy Hale x Max Mara
The actress designed a capsule collection for Weekend Max Mara called “JoyRoad”. She said to WWD that the brand’s team gave her “an open canvas to choose a theme”. As a “country girl at heart”, born in Memphis, Tennessee, Lucy Hale chose the American Western aesthetic for her first capsule for Max Mara, which includes fringe suede pants, a black fringe jacket, a revisited fringe Pasticcino Bag, and knitwear and outerwear pieces. According to WWD, “Her goal was to channel a free-spirited vibe that could match the laid-back codes of the brand and the feeling of “being out in nature, being confident in the woman that I am today, and this desire to go home, whether literally or home within oneself.”
Louis Vuitton x Tyler, the Creator
Louis Vuitton’s Men’s creative director Pharrell Williams has invited his close friend Tyler, the Creator to design a capsule collection for the brand. The line of clothing and accessories features Tyler’s hand-drawn take on Louis Vuitton’s iconic monogram motif dubbed the Craggy Monogram. It will hit the stores on March 21.
Tyler is a long-time friend of the house and its former late creative director Virgil Abloh, whom he met in 2012; Tyler provided music for the Men’s FW 2022 show staged in his memory.
LVMH expands into entertainment
LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton is creating a new entertainment division to find opportunities for the luxury Maison’s 70 brands in film, TV, and audio, creating “content showcasing the personalities and craftsmanship behind storied LVMH brands,” according to WWD. Named “22 Montaigne” after the luxury group’s Paris address, the new venture was created in partnership with Superconnector Studios and its cofounders Jae Goodman and John Kaplan. The recently released “New Look” series on Apple TV is just the beginning of the ambitious fashion entertainment project.
LVMH Métiers d’Excellence x Loro Piana
For the second edition of the “Maestri d’Eccellenza Award” craftsmanship competition, LVMH invited Loro Piana to work together on this project. Launched last year and developed with Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana and the Confartigianato association, as well as Fendi as the first project partner, “the initiative is aimed at raising awareness around the importance of local craftsmanship and its preservation; attracting media attention to the cause, and offering financial aid to some of its exponents,” says WWD. The 3 winners across 3 categories will be revealed during a special event in September in Milan. Each of them will receive a prize of 10,000 euros to reinvest in their business as well as media coverage, and mentoring sessions with Loro Piana professionals.
Charlotte Tilbury x Formula 1
Charlotte Tilbury is now an official sponsor of F1 Academy - Formula 1's female-only racing championship, becoming the first ever beauty brand to sponsor the sub-league, which will begin its second season in March.
Is The Row’s Margaux the next Birkin bag?
Since Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen founded The Row in 2006, it has become one of the most coveted brands. Recently, the label’s Margaux Bag, introduced in 2018, has reached peak popularity. A recent article by BoF even argues whether it could become the next Birkin. In January, fashion search platform Lyst named the Margaux bag fashion’s hottest product of Q4 2023, with searches spiking 198 % year-on-year; on TikTok, the hashtag #Margauxbag has nearly 2 million views and users are also calling it the “new Birkin.” BoF did an interesting analysis, and you can read their full article here.
What’s new in beauty 💄
Coty and Etro inked a beauty license
Following its deal with Marni, Coty Inc. has signed a licensing agreement with another Italian fashion brand: Etro. Coty will produce and distribute Etro’s fragrance lines and home scent collections beyond 2040. The two companies will also work together to explore new categories to further grow the Italian brand’s beauty portfolio. This is the first beauty license for Etro as the brand’s fragrance line, introduced in 1989, has been developed in-house until now, according to WWD.
Beyonce’s hair-care brand is here
Queen B first teased her hair-care line last May, and it officially launched on Tuesday. Named “Cécred”, the brand debuted with the "Foundation Collection," an eight-product range that includes shampoo, hair oil, conditioner, a treatment mask, scalp scrub, protein ritual, a shaking vessel, and sealing lotion. Prices range from $20 to $52.
Fashion Career Tips
Want to write for fashion magazines?
If you dream of becoming a fashion writer or editor but don’t know where to start, we invite you to read this recent article we published on Glam Observer.
You will learn about:
3 career possibilities in fashion writing
What to study to become a fashion journalist
Skills you need (besides writing)
And how to get a job at a fashion magazine in 2024 even if you have zero experience.
Read the article here.
Nice Things 💖
Vanity Fair released a video announcing the cover stars of its 30th annual Hollywood Issue 🌟
What to read this week 📚
If you go through a Fashion Week schedule, you will notice that two main events take place during Fashion Week: fashion shows and presentations. If you’ve been wondering what’s the difference between them, our latest article will answer this question and explain why some brands use fashion shows and others prefer the presentation format. You can read it here.
Fashion Profiles to follow this week
Sarah Mower, Vogue.com’s Chief Critic
MFW Follow their official page of the ongoing Milano Fashion Week
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Nice article love it