In & Out at Céline and Missoni, Jacquemus VS Coperni, Law Roach new book + how to get started in fashion e-commerce
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What a (fashion) week! Fashion Month officially ended with Coperni at Disneyland Paris, which offered the audience and live spectators a true fairytale experience! It was the first time the amusement park had hosted a show, so it was a special night.
Alessandro Michele’s runway debut for Valentino was also one of the most eagerly anticipated events of PFW.
Louis Vuitton created a runway from 1000 trunks!
Christian Louboutin also staged a fantastic show with stunning decor.
Our other favorite brands which showed at Paris Fashion Week are Balmain, Chloé, Miu Miu, Schiaparelli, Stella McCartney, Loewe, and Victoria Beckham. And what are your favorite collections?
Creative Directions: In&Out
In other news, the industry was shaken up by new changes in creative directions.
Hedi Slimane parted ways with Céline after 7 years, it’s the end of an era. During his tenure, the designer has done many great things for the French house, including more than doubling its sales to €2.5 billion, adding menswear for the first time in the brand’s history, and expanding into high perfume and beauty. But despite the exceptional growth and success, Hedi Slimane was apparently involved for months in thorny contract negotiations with LVMH chairman Bernard Arnault, sources told The Business of Fashion.
Following Slimane’s announced departure, fashion enthusiasts and industry professionals were spared the mystery of the successor, who was revealed on the same day. Meet Michael Rider - former womenswear creative director of Polo Ralph Lauren (2017 - 2024) and Celine’s design director of ready-to-wear from 2008 to 2018, under then creative direction of Phoebe Philo. Rider will oversee all Céline’s collections from early 2025.
Missoni also announced some in&outs, saying goodbye to Filippo Grazioli, creative director since 2022, and welcoming Alberto Caliri - who will show his debut collection for Pre-fall.
Caliri is no stranger to Missoni, having joined in 1998 and succeeded Angela Missoni as creative director ad interim in May 2021. A year later, he moved to work for the brand’s home collection. His experience was thus a strategic choice for Missoni. “We are thinking of one lifestyle collection that covers menswear, womenswear and home, and not three single lines. Alberto will be able to bring cohesion, harmony and consistency across the board,” Livio Proli, CEO of Missoni told WWD.
We can see that both Céline and Missoni chose familiar designers to write the next chapter, and we are curious to see how these brands will evolve under the new artistic directions of Rider and Caliri.
What else happened in the industry this week? 💚
LVMH sells Off-White to Bluestar Alliance
The luxury conglomerate announced on Monday that it would sell the Off-White LLC to Bluestar Alliance, a brand management company with a portfolio of brands including Nanette Lepore, Bebe, and Scotch & Soda. Though the companies did not disclose the terms of the deal, industry experts fear “Bluestar is likely to reposition Off-White further downmarket,” according to The Business of Fashion. The company is known for acquiring distressed labels for licensing purposes. Will Off-White remain in the luxury sector or will the brand be licensed into lower price-point categories? The future of Virgil Abloh’s legacy is now uncertain.
Mytheresa has eyes on YNAP
Over the past nine months since the sale of Yoox-Net-a-porter to Farfetch and Alabbar fell through, speculations about the new potential owner have been high. Frasers Group has reportedly expressed an interest in July, and this week sources discovered that Mytheresa might be interested in buying the struggling company too from Compagnie Financière Richemont. However, neither company issued an official answer yet to the press.
If the deal comes into effect, Mytheresa would become the largest volume luxury e-commerce website and it will open doors to conducting logistics operations in the U.S., potentially propelling the Munich-based company’s further growth overseas.
MM6 Maison Margiela will be the new guest designer at Pitti Uomo
MM6 Maison Margiela was named the guest designer at the upcoming edition of Pitti Uomo, set to run from Jan. 14 to 17 at the Fortezza da Basso in Florence. The brand will present a menswear-only collection at a yet unknown date.
Maison Margiela also premiered a documentary
Maison Margiela hosted a premiere Monday night for “Nighthawk,” a documentary that delves into how John Galliano masterminded his Artisanal couture show, staged during haute couture week last January. It is understood the Maison plans to host additional screenings for “Nighthawk” in other cities.
What’s new in beauty 💄
Bottega Veneta released a new perfume collection
Bottega Veneta’s new fragrance collection, comprised of five scents, was developed under the creative direction of Matthieu Blazy, marking his first foray into the perfume world. Inspired by the brand’s Venetian origins, the fragrance line was conceived to be the essence of the house.
Fashion Career Tip
Are you interested in the digital side of fashion brands?
The e-commerce role may be made for you.
E-commerce is one of the most high-in-demand jobs in fashion and will likely stay so as the digital realm continues to expand. This means there will be more and more job opportunities in this sector.
My first fashion internship was actually at the e-commerce department of Alexander McQueen 🥹 so there is a lot I would like to share with you about this role. In my latest article, I explain the different careers in fashion e-commerce and how to get started. I invite you to read it via this link.
Fashion Campaign of the week 💖
Beyoncé for Levi’s 🤠🤎
What to read this week 📚
The Hollywood stylist and self-proclaimed “image architect” Law Roach just released his new book “How to Build a Fashion Icon: Notes on Confidence From the World’s Only Image Architect.” It reads like a memoir and also includes fashion anecdotes from his styling days and self-help tips. The book is already available on Amazon.
Also, Coperni’s recent show made me think about Jacquemus and sparked the question: between these two boundary-pushing brands, who is truly winning the marketing game today? I shared my thoughts in this piece.
Fashion Profiles to follow this week
Tagwalk posts interesting fashion week data
Helena Tejedor styled the recent Coperni show
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Giada Graziano, Inside Fashion Editor in Chief and Glam Observer Founder
Margarita Skacenko, Fashion Editorial Assistant
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