Hottest Brands and Products of Q4 2024, do Fashion Collections lose their spark without a Creative Director? + Creativity in Fashion as you never saw it
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Let’s talk Couture!
What a stunning Paris Couture Week it has been! As it drew the curtain last night, closing with Germanier, let’s see some of the highlights of the Spring Summer 2025 season.
Schiaparelli opened Couture Week at the Petit Palais, and it was splendid. Daniel Roseberry embarked us on a fashion history time travel with a collection, titled “Icarus”, comprised of bustle skirts, ribbons, and corset details inspired by couture legends of the 20th century, such as Charles Frederick Worth, Paul Poiret, Madame Grès, and Yves Saint Laurent.
Alessandro Michele presented his first couture collection for Valentino, so it was one the most talked about shows this season. Michele offered a truly cinematic performance with a parade of garments transformed into costumes - wearable works of art - brought to life through a blend of Valentino’s archives (the signature red dress was there) and Michele’s passion for historical costume. The dramatic music in the background made the whole experience even more cinematic. It was all fresh and exciting.
Another highlight of the season was Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s couture showcase as a guest designer at Jean-Paul Gaultier.
Among our personal favorites is Armani Privé, which celebrated its 20th anniversary. The collection, titled '“Lumières”, explored the element of light in all 93 looks, elegant and sleek as always. We loved the idea of a salon show like in the old days, which was staged at Palazzo Armani, a hôtel particulier.
Elie Saab also offered an exciting couture moment. We were surprised to see denim looks on the runway; this was the first time the designer used this material in haute couture!
Unfortunately, Chanel didn’t really move us this season. Though it was impeccably crafted, it also felt a bit too ‘safe’ and lacked a distinct, compelling narrative. As the Maison prepares to enter a new chapter with Matthieu Blazy, we can’t help but wonder: what role does the design team really play in all of this? Why didn’t they quite seize the moment, proving that in transition periods, they can not only maintain the brand alive but also push boundaries? Can the design team function without a creative director? I’ll be talking about this in my next issue of 365 Days of Fashion this Saturday. Subscribe here to receive in-depth industry posts like this.
What does Haute Couture mean for fashion workers?
Whether directly involved in creating couture or drawing inspiration from it, today’s fashion workers - from designers, pattern makers, fabric specialists, stylists, pr, and editors - carry the lessons of haute couture—attention to detail, storytelling, and pushing creative boundaries—into every aspect of their careers.
Haute couture is rooted in a heritage that celebrates the highest level of artisanal skill. Seamstresses, embroiders, and other artisans, often referred to as the unsung heroes of the industry, dedicate countless hours to perfecting every stitch, pleat, and embellishment. Fashion workers in these roles often describe their work as a blend of artistry and science. The precision required to create a single gown, which might take hundreds or even thousands of hours, sets a standard of excellence that resonates throughout the entire industry.
Fashion workers also use couture shows to find inspiration for collections and styling. While only a small percentage of fashion professionals work directly in haute couture, its influence permeates every corner of the industry.
I dived more into this topic in my recent issue on 365 days of fashion. Click here to read it and share your point of view in the comments.
What else happened in the industry this week? 💚
Miu Miu is the world’s hottest brand again
The latest report from Lyst Index, a quarterly ranking of fashion’s hottest brands and products revealed the results of Q4 2024.
Miu Miu was crowned the world’s hottest brand once again, keeping the same n#1 place as in Q3 2024. This is the ranking of other brands:
It’s interesting to see that luxury labels Prada, Saint Laurent, and Loewe remain in the top 5, while the rest of the table is reshifting with more accessible brands taking over the spotlight. This quarter welcomes two new entrants on the list - UGG and COS -, and Coach climbed 10 places, with a 332% year-on-year increase in 2024, and saw not one but two of its products - the Brooklyn bag and cherry bag charm - on the hottest products list.
Meanwhile, the luxury sector continues to face a downturn, with Gucci, Valentino, Versace, Ralph Laurent, and Jacquemus dropping places. On the other hand, some luxury brands showcased a stronger performance: Moncler climbed five places, Balenciaga jumped two, Chloé advanced to the 19th position after entering the list for the first time last quarter in n#20, and Bottega Veneta remains at steady 6th position.
Among the “Brands moving fast” are Our Legacy, DeMellier, and Auralee.
Finally, the top 10 fashion products according to Lyst Index are the Coach shoulder bag, UGG classic ultra mini boot, Miu Miu Fleece, Coach Cherry Bag Charm, COS Cashmere sweater, Wardrobe NYC RHW Blazer dress, SKIMS x The North Face 2000 Retro Numptse jacket, Charlotte Simone coar, &Daughter Ada cardigan, and Massimo Dutti Penny loafer.
All in all, it seems like luxury brands are increasingly dethroned by premium and contemporary brands and emerging designers. Who knows, we might see one of them even in the top 3 soon (at least they figure already in the hottest products list.). Or do you think that iconic luxury labels like Miu Miu and Loewe will be still dominating online shopping and searches?
Kim Jones is leaving Dior Homme
Breaking news: Kim Jones announced this morning he will no longer serve as the artistic director of Dior Men’s collections - after 7 years in the role. His successor hasn’t been revealed yet, leaving open yet another highly coveted post in the industry.
Last October, Kim Jones also stepped down from Fendi, where he was artistic director of haute couture, ready-to-wear, and fur collections for women for 4 years. The British designer’s departure from two legacy houses, and a previous stint at Louis Vuitton, leaves the question: What will be his next moves?
Glenn Martens is the new creative director of Maison Margiela
OTB Group-owned Maison Margiela chose Glenn Martens to succeed John Galliano, after his announced departure last December. The Belgian designer will also remain the creative director of Diesel, also owned by OTB. After his one-off couture show in 2022 as a guest designer at Jean Paul Gaultier, and his recognized talent for avant-garde fashion, we can’t wait to see how he will transform Margiela.
Stella McCartney buys back her minority stake from LVMH
Stella McCartney announced she is buying back the minority stake in her eponymous label owned by LVMH since 2019. She will, however, continue to advise the group in her new role as the global ambassador of sustainability.
Mytheresa is changing its name
Mytheresa chose a new name for its holding company - LuxExperience. As the company finalizes the acquisition of Yoox Net-a-porter, the new name reflects its ambition to “build a leading, global, multibrand digital luxury group,” according to WWD, adding that “each of the group’s retail brands will have “strong identities and unique characteristics, offering highly curated and strongly differentiated edits of the most prestigious luxury brands for luxury shoppers worldwide.”
Fashion Career Tip
Are you looking for a creative career in fashion that’s not fashion design?
Creativity is a big part of the fashion industry (but not its only driver; business is too). If you are a fashion outsider, you may feel intimidated by it because maybe you don’t want to become a designer or stylist.
However, creativity is not only expressed in the ways you might think like designing outfits. It is woven into every role within the fashion industry - not only other creative careers that one might not immediately think of (graphic design, visual merchandising, art direction…) but also roles that are more oriented toward numbers and analytics.
I remember while working in fashion e-commerce at Alexander McQueen and YNAP, much of my time was spent at my laptop, but the creativity in my role was undeniable. From updating the website with exciting new arrivals and ensuring the homepage looked fresh and engaging to visiting showrooms to explore new collections firsthand, my work combined the digital and the artistic sides.
Take a look at how creativity is expressed across various roles in my recent article available here.
Fashion Campaign of the Week 💖
The Chloé Summer 25 Campaign by the one and only Chemena Kamali 💛
What to watch this week 💻
Alessandro Michele shows the behind-the-scenes of his debut couture collection for Valentino in this short video.
What to read this week 📚
Vogue Arabia published an interesting article about who buys haute couture. While custom clothing is no longer the main source of income for prestigious couture houses, couture attracts high-profile clients and represents the best quality one can buy in fashion.
Fashion Profiles to follow this week
LYST The Lyst Index reveals what consumers search for and buy the most on online shopping platforms
Glenn Martens the new creative director of Maison Margiela
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These were some of our posts this week: What Haute Couture Week means for fashion workers, Fendi is hiring: tips to apply, what is the Bill of Materials, and the first issue of Glamour.
That’s all for this week!
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Giada Graziano, Inside Fashion Editor in Chief and Glam Observer Founder
Margarita Skacenko, Fashion Editor & Community Manager
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