Haute Couture secrets, Balmain x The Lion King, Chloé Arts + how to write for Vogue
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Paris Haute Couture Week Highlights
Have you been following haute couture shows in Paris this week?
Haute Couture is my favorite season because it showcases the artistic and spectacular side of fashion. These are not everyday dresses but truly WOW pieces that define fashion for me.
All eyes were (again) on Daniel Roseberry at Schiaparelli, who kicked off Couture Week. I’m always amazed by his creative work. The show was held in the basement of the Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild, traditionally used for couture shows. The dark setting, with only chandeliers for lighting, was a refreshing change from the usual bright shows. The opening look featured a cape with broad phoenix shoulders, and it was stunning! If you missed it, you can watch the video on their website.
Giorgio Armani created his entire Privé collection around pearls, which I really loved.
Chanel presented at the city’s opera house, Palais Garnier, its first collection since the departure of creative director Virginie Viard, designed by an in-house team.
Nicolas de Felice from Courrèges presented a collection as Jean Paul Gaultier’s 7th guest designer. You can watch his show here.
Balenciaga’s latest couture collection was shown in the house’s historic salons on Avenue George V, which were recently renovated by current creative director Demna Gvasalia.
At Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri combined couture with sportswear by referencing games in Ancient Greece with draped silhouettes, using the jersey fabric. The collection conveyed a strong feminist meaning and attempted to present a more effortless version of couture: ‘[This collection] represents an extraordinary opportunity to combine couture and sportswear with classicism, rebellion, collective energy and, above all, the political value of the female body,’ the designer said via the collection notes. But at the same time, it lacked the wow effect that one usually expects from a couture collection.
Like Dior, Thom Browne was inspired by the upcoming Olympics. ‘Couture is the Olympics of fashion,’ said the designer. At the end of the show, models stood on the podium, wearing embroidered jackets in gold, silver, and bronze.
Viktor & Rolf’s recent couture collection titled “Haute Abstraction” was rather unconventional, designed “from the desire to express a certain absurdism,” in the brand’s own words. The Dutch designers were inspired by the F/W 1998 'Atomic Bomb' collection, crafting sculptural garments based on geometric shapes - rectangular, triangular, spherical, and trapezoid which gave extreme volume to the looks.
Which was your favorite couture collection this season?
If you want to learn about the history of haute couture and curious facts about it, we invite you to read our latest post about it.
What happened in the industry this week? 💚
Vogue World Paris: What happened?
The third stop of Vogue World’s annual tour arrived in Paris on June 23 - on the eve of the Haute Couture Week and ahead of The Olympics, celebrating fashion and sports in a place of historical and fashionable significance for Paris - at the heart of the Place Vendôme.
The event kicked off with a parade of over 500 athletes from various disciplines, and couturiers from the houses of Armani Privé, Balenciaga, Chanel, Dior, Giambattista Valli, Givenchy, Jean Paul Gaultier, Maison Margiela, and Schiaparelli. The show was divided into several parts, each of them dedicated to a decade: 1920s: Cycling, 1930s: Track and Field, 1940s: Aquatics, 1950s: Equestrian, 1960s: Fencing, 1970s: Gymnastics, 1980s: Martial Arts, 1990s: Football, 2000s: Tennis, 2010s: Breakdancing.
The show was hosted by Cara Delevigne and was attended by many guest star celebrities and famous models, including Gigi Hadid, Kendall Jenner, Sabrina Carpenter, Bad Bunny, Maluma, Ashley Graham, Serena and Venus Williams, and more.
If you didn’t attend Vogue World Paris, you can always (re)watch it live here.
Peter Copping is Lanvin’s new creative director
After more than a year of search since Bruno Sialleli’s departure in April 2023, Lanvin found its new artistic director of womenswear and menswear. Peter Copping will assume his new responsibilities this September.
After graduating from Central Saint Martins in London, Peter Copping began his career at Sonia Rykiel and worked for a decade with Marc Jacobs, as head of women’s fashion at Louis Vuitton. He then served as creative director at Nina Ricci (2009-2014), and Oscar de la Renta (2014-2016) where he was personally chosen by the founder as his successor.
Lately, the designer has been working at Balenciaga, which he joined as head of couture in 2021 and Head of Special Projects and VIPs.
LVMH to buy Richemont?
Bloomberg Businessweek reported Tuesday that Bernard Arnault, Chairman and CEO of LVMH had taken a personal equity stake - apparently “small” - in Richemont (the owner of Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Chloé…,) according to The Business of Fashion. In addition, there are speculations that LVMH could potentially acquire Richemont. However, the luxury conglomerate’s CEO, Johann Rupert, has repeatedly said that the company is not for sale. A potential tie-up between both luxury groups thus remains unclear.
Iris van Herpen was named a Knight of the Order of Arts and Letters
The Dutch couturier was recently honored with a prestigious award, named Knight of the Order of Arts and Letters at the grand Paris residence of Jan Versteeg, ambassador of the Kingdom of the Netherlands to France since 2022.
Iris van Herpen’s designs are recognizable by the fusion between technology and haute couture. She was the first designer to send 3-D printing couture garments on the runway and has collaborated with renowned professionals from the fields of sciences, technology, and architecture to connect them with fashion. In 2011, Iris van Herpen became a guest member of the Parisian Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture and has been presenting her collection at Paris Fashion Week since then.
Chloé’s new art project
In the framework of Chloé Arts - a debut art project of the French brand - Chloé‘s flagship on Rue Saint-Honoré in Paris is currently displaying 8 large-scale paintings by Danish artist Mie Olise Kjærgaard.
According to the brand’s statement to WWD, “the program is designed to “nurture selected emerging artists, and create unexpected interdisciplinary conversations across different fields of the arts.” Chemena Kamali pointed out that “It’s really about bringing attention to incredible women who — no matter what field they work in — deserve a platform for their voice to be heard, for their work to be seen.”
Acne Studios x Spotify
The Swedish brand teamed up with Spotify to showcase musical talent across the globe and connect them with their fans through special collaborations. The first collaboration will take place in the fall of 2024. This partnership builds upon Acne Studio’s ‘Acne People’ talent program, which has previously featured collaborations with stars like Rosalía, Caroline Polachek, and K-pop band ILLIT.
Fashion Career Tip
Dream of becoming a fashion writer?
Many aspiring writers want to work at Vogue, so in our recent article, we share how to write your articles for this glossy publication.
From choosing the market to understanding the tone of the publication and how to pitch, you will find everything you need to write for Vogue. The strategies we share can also be applied to writing for any of your other favorite magazines.
Fashion campaign of the week 🦁
Balmain x The Lion King
Balmain and Disney are bringing magic ✨Olivier Rousteing released yesterday a preview of a limited-edition collection to celebrate the 30th anniversary of The Lion King and the upcoming theatrical release of “Mufasa: The Lion King” in December.
The collection, inspired by the themes and characters of the classic Disney movie, is filled with men’s and women’s ready-to-wear and accessories designed by local African artisans and includes several Balmain signature styles. The campaign was shot in South Africa with a “Balmain Army” of 30 models from across Africa.
The collection will be released on July 8, accompanied by a short film, directed by Femi Oladigbolu, which will be aired at The Lion King In Concert at London’s Royal Albert Hall on July 5.
What to watch this week 📺
If you’re looking for a new fashion documentary to watch this summer, this is the one not to miss: Diane von Furstenberg: Woman in Charge. The film, directed by Sharmeen Obaid-Chinoy and Trish Dalton, tells the story of the iconic fashion designer, her life, and her eponymous brand. It is now streaming on Hulu and Disney+.
Also, there is a recent interesting interview with John Galliano about his creative process at Margiela.
What to listen to this week 🎙️
Want more of Vogue World Paris? In the recent The Run-Through with Vogue podcast episode co-hosts Chioma Nnadi and Chloe Malle unveil the behind-the-scenes of this magical event.
What to read this week 📚
Looking for fashion books to read this summer?
You can't beat sitting in the sun with a good book. And what better way to do it than exploring your passion for fashion, right?
In our recent article, we've put together a list of all the books you can dive into this summer, so you don't have to search. Happy reading!
Fashion Profiles to follow this week
Peter Copping the new creative director of Lanvin
Chloé Malle Editor, Vogue.com and co-host of The Run-Through with Vogue
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Giada Graziano, Inside Fashion Editor in Chief and Glam Observer Founder
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