Fashion Transparency Index 2023, The Attico in Milan, new documentary about Supermodels + history of fashion magazines
Thanks for reading Inside Fashion! Subscribe to receive it each week in your inbox.
For the full experience, why not consider becoming a paid subscriber for just 1,97€/ week?
When you upgrade you’ll start receiving:
Once a week a list of the latest fashion jobs and internships in New York, London, Milan, and Paris, straight to your inbox so you’ll always be up to date with who is hiring
365 days of fashion, our special quick-to-read daily emails that will teach you fashion industry fundamentals (history of designers and fashion houses, fashion terms, how the fashion industry works, fabrics, and much more).
Want an example of topics we sent to our paid subscribers? This week, we talked about: Hugo Boss, overcasting, why do fashion brands join conglomerates, Giorgio Armani, and the history of the Polo shirt.
Access to the community to network with other fashion enthusiasts
Join our fashion book club
Receive a list of the latest fashion jobs and internships every Friday
Get access to the full archive of all our previous posts
And yes, it’s a way to support our work as well :)
Happy Friday everyone!
What an incredible week it has been! Yesterday marked the end of registrations for the Summer Fashion Camp, and I couldn't be more thrilled. The response has been overwhelming, and I am excited to work with the talented individuals part of the 2023 cohort. We had a Zoom event yesterday during which I assigned them some truly exciting fashion projects, which will undoubtedly enhance their portfolios and provide them with valuable experiences throughout the summer.
What about your summer plans? Are you on holiday already? I'm still here in Milan and fully engaged, not yet on holiday.
I wanted to give you a sneak peek into what to expect about the calendar of this newsletter. The Inside Fashion newsletter will go on a brief hiatus in August and make its grand return in September, refreshed and ready to bring you more fashion inspiration, trends, and industry news. So July 28th is the last issue you will receive before our summer break (if you are subscribed to 365 days of fashion you will still receive your daily emails with fashion history, terms etc.. in August as well).
Okay, after this short quick catch-up, let's see what happened in the industry this week (besides our great Summer Fashion Camp ;))
The Fashion Transparency Index released its 2023 edition where it reviews and ranks 250 of the world’s largest and most influential fashion brands and retailers with the aim to incentivate them to be more transparent about their human rights and environmental policies, practices and impacts, in their operations and supply chains.
The Fashion Transparency Index comprises 258 indicators covering a wide range of social and environmental topics such as animal welfare, biodiversity, climate, due diligence, forced labour, freedom of association, gender equality, hazardous chemicals, living wages, purchasing practices, supplier disclosure, waste and recycling, working conditions and more.
These are the key findings from the 2023 report:
Highest scoring brands: OVS (83%) and Gucci (80%), followed by Target Australia, Kmart Australia, United Colors of Benetton, H&M, C&A, The North Face, Puma, Timberland and Vans. In addition, brands including Armanim Jil Sander, Miu Miu, Prada, Kate Spade, Coach, Chloe, Valentino, Diesel, Versace, among others, saw an increase between 10% and 19% since 2022.
Lowest scoring brands include Savage X Fenty, New Yorker, MaxMara, Fashion Nova, Van Heusen, and others. In addition, brands including Reebok, Wrangler, Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger, Ermenegildo Zegna, and Patagonia, among others, saw a decrease in between -4 and -46% since 2022.
94% of brands still don’t tell what fuel is used in the manufacturing of their clothes.
Water and consumption: 88% of major fashion brands still do not disclose their annual production volumes, obscuring the scale and truth of overproduction.
99% of brands do not disclose a commitment to reduce the number of new items they produce.
Water and chemicals: Only only 7% of major fashion brands publish their supplier wastewater test results. While 32% of brands publish their water footprint within their own operations, only 24% publish the water footprint at manufacturing level and even less at fibre at raw material level (4%).
Sourcing materials: 51% of major fashion brands publish targets on sustainable materials yet only 44% define what they mean by ‘sustainable’.
Deforestation: Just 12% of major fashion brands published a time-bound, measurable commitment to zero deforestation this year, down 3% from last year.
In addition, only 7% publish measurable progress towards achieving zero deforestation.
1% of major fashion brands tell the number of workers in their supply chains being paid a living wage.
Click here to read the report.
What surprised you the most after reading this report?
What's happening in the industry this week?💚
Walter Chiapponi is leaving Tod’s
The Italian luxury brand confirmed on Wednesday that Walter Chiapponi will leave his role as creative director. His last collection for Tod’s will be for spring 2024, to be unveiled in Milan on September 22 during the city’s fashion week. The successor will be announced in the next months.
Walter Chiapponi joined Tod’s in October 2019. Under his tenure, sales of the brand climbed 24.4 % to 130.2 million euros in the first 3 months of the year.
Marcus Wainwright is leaving Rag&Bone
Since co-founding the brand with David Neville in 2002 (with no design training!), Marcus Wainwright is stepping down from his role as the CEO of Rag&Bone at the end of this month. However, he will remain a “significant” shareholder and a member of the board of directors, the company said. The creative duties will be split between Jennie McCormick, chief merchandising and design officer, who will oversee womenswear, footwear and accessories, and Kyle Sweeney, senior vice president of men’s design and merchandising.
The Attico to stage its first runway show during MFW
Gilda Ambrosio and Giorgia Tordini, the founders of The Attico launched in 2016, are planning to stage their first-ever fashion show during Milan Fashion Week
Ralph Lauren will return to NYFW
The American brand announced it will return to New York Fashion Week with a new women’s show on September 8. The last time Ralph Lauren staged a fashion show in New York was in September 2019, as the brand recently showed during Milan’s fashion week on June 16 with his Purple Label collection “Dolce Vita”, as well as in San Marino, California, on Oct. 13, 2022, and held an intimate in-person show at the Museum of Modern Art in New York on March 22 of the same year.
Givenchy teamed with Mr.Bags
For their third collaboration, Givenchy and Chinese fashion influencer Tao Liang, professionally known as Mr. Bags, worked on a limited run of a special edition of the Voyou bag which will be available exclusively to China via Mr. Bags’ WeChat mini-program store from July 25. First revealed during the brand’s spring 2023 fashion show in Paris, the bag was revisited with more imposing proportions, matte-finish materials and sporty custom hardware, and is finished in calfskin leather.
According to WWD, Tao Liang is known for helping brands including Chloé, Burberry, Dunhill, Givenchy, Tod’s, and Longchamp to sell out limited-edition bags in China.
Bottega Veneta created a bubble-wrap-looking bag
The transparent large tote bag was actually made using the brand’s signature woven intrecciato technique but in silicone instead of classic leather. It is priced at $9,900.
Viktor&Rolf released its first-ever sneaker in a collab with Superga
To celebrate its 30th anniversary, Viktor&Rolf expanded to shoes with its first couture-inspired sneaker, which was designed in a collaboration with Italian footwear label Superga, dropping July 12. The brands reimagined Superga’s 2790 platform sneaker designed in complete satin construction with Viktor&Rolf’s signature oversized bow, as well as Superga's 2708 high-top platform sneaker, also in satin, with hand-sewn flowers made of satin and organza, embellished with Swarovski crystals.
Kirsten Dunst and Coach launched a collaboration
The creators of “Observed by Us”, a creative project that the actress Kirsten Dunst and designer and illustrator Jessica Herschko began in 2020 with drawing custom illustrations on fashion pieces, partnered with Coach on a new line. Released on Wednesday, the Observed by Us x Coach collection features ready-to-wear, bags, footwear and accessories printed and embellished with hand-drawn illustrations by Observed by Us. Prices range from $20 to $595.
A new documentary about Supermodels is coming
Apple TV+ is releasing on September 20 a four-part documentary “The Supermodels,” directed by Roger Ross Williams and Larissa Bills. Focusing on the lives of Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Linda Evangelista and Christy Turlington, the documentary will show how the 4 iconic supermodels built their career from modeling to leading philanthropic, activist and business ventures today, and how they became renowned names in the fashion industry.
What’s new in sustainability 🌱
Gucci became the first Italian luxury house to receive certification for gender parity
The certification was awarded to the Italian luxury brand by independent global inspection and compliance experts Bureau Veritas evaluating six key indicators: culture and strategy; governance; human resources processes; opportunities for women’s growth and inclusion; gender pay equity; support for parenting, and work-life balance, according to WWD.
LVMH to reduce water consumption by 30% by 2030
According to WWD, with this new strategy, “The company will employ pressure indicators and geolocation data to deploy specific action plans in the areas suffering from water stress, use new technologies to reuse treated wastewater and recovering rainwater on the group’s production sites, and will continue to expand the group’s regenerative agriculture program launched in 2021, which improves soil quality and water retention, as some of the methods to reach the target.” In addition, the company will introduce more manufacturing processes that consume less water.
Fashion Career Tip of the week
Looking for motivation to make your fashion job search process easier?
When you start applying for jobs in fashion, one can quickly get overwhelmed and discouraged, and feel like they don’t belong in the industry. Maybe it’s because you are building your first resume and don’t know how to do it, or you are getting rejections or total silence from fashion companies.
I know how you’re feeling, cause I was there. Embarking on a job search in the fashion industry can be a rollercoaster ride, filled with twists, turns, and moments of uncertainty. As someone who has experienced the challenges firsthand, I understand the feelings of being an outsider, lacking experience, feeling not qualified due to an unrelated degree (I have a degree in management engineering) and having zero connections. Let’s add also not living in a fashion capital.
However, staying motivated is crucial to keep searching for the right job and not being among those who end up getting a job in another industry and giving up their job search in fashion.
So, to give you some motivation on those challenging days, in this article, I am sharing tips to help you during your fashion job search process, such as where to find inspiration, how to create a favorable environment to stay focused and motivated, and tips to boost your skills and set the right application strategies.
Nice things 💖
Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda Show in Puglia. Watch it here.
What to read this week 📚
How much do you know about the history of fashion magazines?
In our recent article on glamobserver.com, we talked about the history and evolution of fashion magazines from the 17th century to the present day, so that you can learn how some of your favorite fashion publications came to life.
You will learn:
The history of Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, Marie Claire, Elle…but not only
What has changed in the fashion media landscape
How magazines operate: everything you wanted to know about the different roles
Click here to read the article.
Fashion Profiles to follow this week
Walter Chiapponi, to follow his career after Tod’s
Fashion Revolution, the non-profit organization to find transparency data in the fashion industry
Your Fashion Jobs Date 🔍
Your fashion jobs date is now part of our paid subscription.
If you want to receive the latest fashion jobs and internships every week straight to your inbox and more content from us to learn more about the fashion industry, upgrade to our paid newsletter for just 1,97€/week to receive for the full experience.
That’s all for this week.
Forward this email to your fashion friends :)
Giada Graziano, Inside Fashion Editor in Chief and Glam Observer Founder
Margarita Skacenko, Fashion Editorial Assistant
Follow us on Instagram @glamobserver
Read our website: glamobserver.com
Interested in advertising in Inside Fashion or posting a job offer to reach 40,000 fashion enthusiasts? Email us at newsletter@glamobserver.com