From London to Milan, Elle Africa launches & Fur coming back?
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What happened in the industry this week? 💚
London Fashion Week kicked off yesterday.
The Fall/Winter 2026 season opens with a stronger calendar and a renewed sense of confidence.
His Majesty King Charles III made a high-profile appearance not only at the official LFW opening (Feb 19) but also showed up at British-Nigerian designer Tolu Coker’s runway, a symbolic moment celebrating community-rooted design and British diversity. Coker cited her personal journey — from working at a Louis Vuitton concession to building her own line — as inspiration for the collection, which weaves narratives of class and cultural identity into tailoring and textiles.
JW Anderson has once again opted for a private presentation rather than a traditional runway, signaling how brands continue to rethink format and exclusivity.
There’s also a private event by Fiorucci happening in London today, February 20, showing how international brands use fashion week cities as cultural stages, even if they’re not officially on the runway schedule.
👉 Official calendar: London Fashion Week Schedule
Where to watch the shows? Instagram and YouTube (the official accounts of each brand) + TagWalk are my favorite resources to keep up with fashion shows.
Fast Fashion in 2026: A Model Under Pressure
This week, one topic kept resurfacing across major industry publications: fast fashion and its widening sustainability gap.
According to recent analysis highlighted by The Business of Fashion, major players — from ultra-fast disruptors to global sportswear giants — are falling behind on climate and environmental commitments. Despite public pledges around decarbonisation and circularity, measurable progress remains inconsistent.
Here’s what’s happening behind the headlines:
Carbon targets are not being met at the pace promised.
Production volumes remain extremely high, which makes emissions reduction structurally difficult.
Sustainability is often still driven by marketing narratives rather than full supply-chain transformation.
Investors and regulators are increasing scrutiny, especially in Europe, where policy pressure is intensifying.
The tension is clear:
The traditional fast-fashion model is built on speed, scale, and constant newness. But the industry conversation in 2026 is increasingly focused on longevity, traceability, and accountability.
We’re not seeing a collapse of the fast-fashion system — far from it. Demand remains strong. But we are seeing a strategic crossroads.
Fur & Fashion Culture
According to Le Monde , both real and faux fur have re-emerged visibly on the streets of Paris and across European fashion capitals, signaling a complex shift in fashion’s relationship with ethics, heritage, and aesthetics.
What’s Actually Happening?
After years of brands publicly banning fur — especially between 2018 and 2022, when major luxury houses distanced themselves from animal fur — we are now seeing a noticeable reappearance in three key forms:
Vintage fur
Many younger consumers are wearing second-hand mink, fox, and shearling pieces sourced from resale platforms and inherited wardrobes. The argument? If it already exists, wearing it is more sustainable than producing new synthetic alternatives.
Faux fur sophistication
Technological advancements have made faux fur more realistic and luxurious. Designers are experimenting with higher-quality synthetic blends that replicate texture and weight more convincingly than past versions.
Aesthetic revival
There is a broader return to maximalism and opulence. Plush textures align with the “quiet luxury meets vintage glamour” aesthetic currently trending across Europe.
Milan Warms Up: 161 Appointments Ahead
Milano Moda Donna returns from February 24 to March 1 with:
• 161 total appointments
• 54 physical shows
• 8 digital shows
• 77 presentations
• 27 events
👉Official calendar: Milano Fashion Week Schedule (Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana)
The most anticipated debut?
Maria Grazia Chiuri is taking the creative direction at Fendi after her long tenure at Dior. Milan is where craftsmanship meets commercial solidity. It’s less experimental than London, more business-driven.
Moncler: Solid Growth & Leadership Shift
Moncler continued to make headlines this week with its latest financial and executive news:
2025 Results & Transition
Moncler reported a 3% rise in full-year 2025 revenue (€3.1 bn), beating expectations and driven by strong demand across Asia and the Americas. The brand attributed momentum to creative campaigns like “Warmer Together” featuring Al Pacino and Robert De Niro, and strategic collaborations through Moncler Genius and Stone Island.
CEO Remo Ruffini will transition to Executive Chairman in April, with Bartolomeo Rongone (formerly of Bottega Veneta) stepping in as CEO, a move suggesting continuity in creative growth and commercial expansion.
Moncler also saw a 7% revenue increase in Q4 of 2025, further underscoring brand resilience in a conservative luxury market.
Condé Nast Shake-Up: Adam Baidawi Takes Over GQ
Adam Baidawi has been named Global Editorial Director of GQ, replacing Will Welch, who recently left to work alongside Pharrell Williams in Paris.
This is the latest leadership shift at Condé Nast, which has been restructuring its editorial structure across titles like Vogue and Vanity Fair.
💼 Brunello Cucinelli: Growth Despite Retail Chaos
While retail turbulence continues, especially after the Saks Global Chapter 11 situation, Brunello Cucinelli reported strong 2025 results.
Highlights:
• +10.1% revenue growth
• €1.4 billion turnover
• Strong performance in Europe, the Americas, and Asia
• Retail representing over 67% of total sales
Cucinelli openly addressed relationships with Saks, Neiman Marcus, and Bergdorf Goodman, emphasizing long-term partnerships and minimal overlap in customers.
What’s interesting here is the balance between wholesale and direct retail. The brand continues investing in directly operated boutiques and expanding globally, including Mexico City, China, Florida, and Abu Dhabi. This is long-term vision.
Dua Lipa Joins Bulgari
Dua Lipa has been named Global Brand Ambassador for Bulgari.
She joins ambassadors like Anne Hathaway and Priyanka Chopra Jonas, strengthening Bulgari’s positioning around empowerment and modern femininity.
Dua Lipa represents:
• Cultural influence
• Global appeal
• Fashion credibility
• Music industry relevance
Luxury ambassador choices are never random. They reflect long-term brand positioning. And notice the timing. Announcements like this often align with fashion month visibility and upcoming campaigns. Celebrity alignment is part of global strategy.
Power Couple Strategy: Hailey Bieber’s Capsule Sells Out
Hailey Bieber continues proving she’s more than a model.
Already successful with Rhode, her beauty brand, she just launched a capsule collection in collaboration with Skylrk, the clothing brand founded by her husband Justin Bieber.
The result? Almost everything sold out immediately.
This is not just a “Valentine’s gift moment.”
It’s brand ecosystem strategy.
Rhode built credibility.
Skylrk brings streetwear appeal.
Together, they merge audience bases.
🩰 When Fashion Meets Ballet: Armani in Vienna
When fashion meets dance, magic happens.
Giorgio Armani designed the costumes for the 16 dancing couples at the 2026 Vienna Opera Ball opening ceremony at the Wiener Staatsoper.
The Wiener Staatsballett, now under the artistic direction of Alessandra Ferri, delivered a choral performance in Armani’s creations. This is brand positioning at its purest.
Nice Things 💖
Elle Launches African Edition with Naomi Campbell Cover
What to watch this week 🎥💫
Want to work in fashion but don’t know what to study or where to start?
Most aspiring professionals feel stuck between fashion schools, online courses, random advice, and social media inspiration without a clear direction. Watch it!
Fashion Profiles to follow this week
Trevor Stuurman, Elle’s cover photographer
Adam Baidawi, GQ’s new Global Editorial Director
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Giada Graziano, Inside Fashion Editor in Chief and Glam Observer Founder
Giorgia Angelica Ferronato, Intern at Glam Observer
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Loved seeing Dua Lipa join Bulgari because it feels aligned with their modern glamour and global influence (can you tell i love her sm). King Charles appearing at London Fashion Week was so weird and unexpected?? wdym fashion is suddenly so involved with cultural diplomacy, also the return of fur and the fast-fashion sustainability gap literally shows how aesthetics and consumption still clash with ethics :(( boo